Club 80-90 Forums

I know I'm probably worrying over nothing but the mechanic at the garage I took my van to for a service did the oil change with semisynth. Everywhere on here says to use mineral. Will the semisynth be okay until the next oil change in 5000 miles or should I do it again with mineral?

Did you specify Mineral ? If not bin it and replace it yourself. If you did then take it back and make them do it properly.

Ian.

my bus never had an oil leak untill i took it to a mechanic who serviced it and changed the oil, im sure he put semi synth in it as soon as i got it back it was leaking oil from about 3 different places, i now cant get the sump plug off to drain it were hes done it up so bloody tight!

jamesandhayley wrote:I know I'm probably worrying over nothing but the mechanic at the garage I took my van to for a service did the oil change with semisynth. Everywhere on here says to use mineral. Will the semisynth be okay until the next oil change in 5000 miles or should I do it again with mineral?

Semi will be better than mineral. Full will be better than semi.

IMHO, ignore the "Anything but dead dinosaurs will cause doom, gloom, and oil leaks"... ANY half-decent brand or quality oil (regardless of base) contains detergent additives, and you really don't want a build-up of dirt to be all that's holding your oil in. (B'sides, unless the engine's been neglected, there won't be a build up of dirt anyway)

Any oil of the same viscosity rating is the same thickness/runniness whether it's mineral, semi or full synth. Put too thin an oil in, and it may well leak from knackered seals more readily - again, regardless of base.

The only difference is that mineral based oils will break down more quickly, and cease to protect your engine as well from a lower mileage.

Have a look at "Common oil myths"... http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-art ... -Myths.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Adrian the theory is one thing, the practice is another. Are you seriously saying that all those of us who have had these WBXer vans for years are deliberately lying to you ? Cos if you are you're talking "Balls".

Ian Hulley wrote:Are you seriously saying that all those of us who have had these WBXer vans for years are deliberately lying to you ?

I'm saying that the correct viscosity is far more relevant to whether oil leaks or not (and to noisy hydraulic tappets) than whether the base is mineral, semi or full synth.

WBX engines are not a modern engine and need oil changes every 5K, the engine dates back pre WW2

A modern engine with fully synth oil has its oil change every 12-18K and the tolerances of the engine is much tighter.

So fully synth oil on an old engine is pointless and can cause more problems

Semi has a greater range of molecule sizes - hence the leaks. Viscosity the same - properties are not. Sorry, concur with others on this. Semi certainly a superior oil but it doesn't suit a WBX. It will lubricate fine (engine won't be damaged) but it'll mark its territory often on an older vehicle.

eatcustard wrote:A modern engine with fully synth oil has its oil change every 12-18K and the tolerances of the engine is much tighter.

My current main car is 21yo, has 230k miles on it, a basic engine design that goes back to the sixties - and a factory recommendation for full synth only. I use 5w30 (the thinner end of the recommended viscosities) in it, and apart from a slight drip from a worn distributor shaft, it's oil tight.

I realise that you can't be wrong Adrian so why don't you put super-synthetic in your van and do what-ever you want to do BUT don't spread mis-information amongst others who need to know the truth. We don't say these things for the sake of it .... honest.

Ian Hulley wrote:BUT don't spread mis-information amongst others who need to know the truth. We don't say these things for the sake of it .... honest.

<shrug>
I'm merely pointing out that there's no rational basis - and it's explicitly listed as one of the "oil myths" on that link I posted.

There's 2cvers who swear blind that you should never use synth in 2cvs, either. Yet I've never had a problem.

Seems odd that Brickwerks don't have "DO NOT USE THIS IN T25s" plastered all over the semi-synth they sell as "suitable for both petrol & diesel engines"
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... ct_id=1015" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Guys, I'm sorry if I've started something - please don't argue - it's a beautiful day .

But talking about leaks, she had a little drip drip since I've had her (nearly our 1st anniversary ) but this has become more noticable since the change. The change was done at Elite, so I would have thought they would know.

But maybe, I'll have to do another with mineral.

Bum.

I always use a cheap semi-synth in my wasserboxer. Very occasional van droppings (and I mean less than a teaspoon a month) but runs perfectly. I change it every 5k or twice a year.

ONE: I don't think jamesandhayley need to worry too much about leaving the semi-sythetic in his engine, it will work just fine.
However.....if the Semi-synthetic used was of lower viscosity ie: 10W40...wasserboxer hydraulic tappets do tend to drain off with thinner oils so it wouldn't suprise me if he suffers from a MORE FREQUENT cold start tappet rattle as a result.
The same goes for his oil leak....he may see a little more oil weeping again down to a thinner oil.

I do agree about the viscosity comment: most issues over oils in wasserboxers are down to the oil used being too thin and not necessarily because it is part synthetic.....unfortunately it is hard to find 15W40 as a semi synthetic (not impossible as I know Halfrauds do one) but on the whole, if you find the correct viscosity (15W40) it is normally a mineral oil...thats just how it is.
So when semi and full synthetics are used in wasserboxers they are nearly always too thin and so the above mentioned issues can develope.
Personally I wouldn't have too many issues using 15W40 Semi Synthetic is my clean 2.1 MV but as I don't thrash my engine and I over service it with oil changes every 3 to 5,000 miles I really have no insentive or need.



I will point out that the Sinta Silver AdrianC linked to is 10W40 so for that reason I wouldn't use it in a wasser boxer anyway regardless of the fact it is a semi -synthetic

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... ct_id=1015" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;[/quote]

But since you made a point by linking that particular oil I will answer your comments by pointing out Simon also sells Titan mineral 15W40 which I suspect he stocks for those who know the Sinta Silver is too thin for a wasser boxer.

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... gory_id=72" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I think the point hear is there isn't such thing as a oil that doesn't work but there is such thing as an oil that is 'best suited'

Martin

Leaking due to being too thin is far more likely to occur when the oil's hot, though - when both 10w40 and 15w40 are equivalent viscosity to straight 40. 10w40 is slightly thinner when cold than 15w40.