Club 80-90 Forums

Hi all,

Im wanting to paint my van sometime soon when i get a break from assignments and the misses giving me rooms to decorate
What id like a little advise on please is, if i was to filler the gaps between the various panels so that i can get a smooth finish will this matter? Is there a mechanical or otherwise reason not to?

Thanks

Do you mean the seams between all the panals as in the ones that rust! if you do this it will look carp, and after a very short time the filler will crack as the body flexes, also you will not get it so that it appears as one continouse panal, it will always look what it is,
just look at the many threads on this, clean out scrape gouge do whatever, treat, and use a fine application of a seam sealer just into the very bottom of the seam, your not trying to fill it just even it out to give a uniform appearance.
mike

Hi Mike thanks

I was meaning to try and completely seal them to try and get a continous looking panel... but as you say that will not work, flexing of panels etc. What if instead of seam sealer/additional to ie over the top i was to use the liquid carbon normally used for bridging holes? would this not flex also be stronger/less suseptable to cracking in order to get a smooth finished appearance?


O why would it look carp? Obviously i need to do my homework on this, thanks again il certainly have a look for simular threads on the subject

Every time I've seen anyone attempt this, within a year or more the filling material works loose. Lost track of how many bug owners have done this only to find they end up with a right mess to put right. Strongly advise you don't do this - honest.

If i remember right the only way to actually do it is weld all the seams together then lead fill. If i remember.......

jimpainter wrote:If i remember right the only way to actually do it is weld all the seams together then lead fill. If i remember.......

NOoooooo

If you ever have seen the real minis that were de-seamed, they all cracked within a year.

They bodywork is designed to flex at the seams, dont modify it, it will end in tears

Ok should have rephrased it. I wouldnt do it but that was the most hard wearing way of doing it but as you say its not too be done. Seams are there for a reason.

.

Ok im getting the message ... just as well i checkd first!!! i have read a little on subject and will be doing seams in sealant, epoxy stuff possibly 3M 8115.

Is replacement of all the seams necessary as my van has not long been re sprayed (just a quick bodge job by previous owner) however theres very little rust showing around the seams, so would just doing those parts be ok?

Thanks guys for all the help...

eatcustard wrote:

jimpainter wrote:If i remember right the only way to actually do it is weld all the seams together then lead fill. If i remember.......

NOoooooo

If you ever have seen the real minis that were de-seamed, they all cracked within a year.

They bodywork is designed to flex at the seams, dont modify it, it will end in tears

Beg to differ a little here.
Now you are probably right in a lot of what you say but,,,,,,,,,,,, I deseamed many minis and chopped them and all sorts of weird stuff which I wont go into here but if youve seen them crack up then they werent done right,
in their time I also saw the results of bodgers and the inexperienced that thought they could copy us and do it but few were successfull
they were brazed internally after removing many braces (later refitted) seems removed,then externally brazed, then leaded, some I took the roofs of and dropped them also , never had one fail, but it took eons to do and cost ££££££££££££
mike

Could I suggest that perhaps the 3M 8115 might be overkill for that?
A decent sealant like tigerseal or sikaflex is usually what people use.

Thanks Boatbuilder..
Tigerseal sounds good also il look into both, either one really aslong as it does the job, appreciate the heads up

metalmick8y wrote:

eatcustard wrote:

jimpainter wrote:If i remember right the only way to actually do it is weld all the seams together then lead fill. If i remember.......

NOoooooo

If you ever have seen the real minis that were de-seamed, they all cracked within a year.

They bodywork is designed to flex at the seams, dont modify it, it will end in tears

Beg to differ a little here.
Now you are probably right in a lot of what you say but,,,,,,,,,,,, I deseamed many minis and chopped them and all sorts of weird stuff which I wont go into here but if youve seen them crack up then they werent done right,
in their time I also saw the results of bodgers and the inexperienced that thought they could copy us and do it but few were successfull
they were brazed internally after removing many braces (later refitted) seems removed,then externally brazed, then leaded, some I took the roofs of and dropped them also , never had one fail, but it took eons to do and cost ££££££££££££
mike

You are correct, but IF someone is good enough to do it right.

Hi all im back ......

Just need a little more advise please, im trying to ascertain the drying times for sealant (Tiger sealant) iv look on their website and on here but all it says is that it is suitable to be painted over once cured, but nothing on how long it takes to cure

Any help is greatly appreciated as always!!!

Thanks

The stuff I use is normally dry within about 4 hours.