Club 80-90 Forums

Hi All,

Sorry to start a new thread on this, but I have finally got the clutch plate out after buying a set of spline bits, but now I am unsure if I need to take the fly wheel off to get the bearing out, some advised i do some dont. but please take a look at (what is left) of the bearing and any advise to get it out would be gratefully received.

To me the lip of the fly wheel where the bearing sits looks too fouled up to try and pry it out, doesn't look like enough of the bearing left to try the hydraulic hammer method as suggested by some, i think my only option is to try and use a rawl bolt but i cant think what to use as a weight to make it into a slide hammer, or take the fly wheel, something that I was trying to avoid as i hear the bolts are use once only.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/l ... directlink

you dont need to take the flywheel off.... it makes no odds.......

Any other suggestions how to get the bearing out without removing the fly wheel?

I think all the options were covered in that thread.
patience and perseverance mate!

i have had enough of this!!!! was under the van all sat morning with a 2.5kg slide hammer and that bearing is not moving, it has come part of the way but now is stuck on what looks like a lip in the flywheel. I have pulled some cr*p out that looks liked packed dust of the old clutch, but the bearing is stuck solid, there is noway that hole is big enough to set the bearing through. I tried to remove the fly wheel but those nuts are seized!!! this is a total nightmare, the only solution I can think is put it back together and drive it to a garage and pay someone to sort it, I just cant afford the £500 I was quoted. I think that or harakiri is the only option left!!!!

If it were me I would be taking the flywheel off. On a CU air cooled it wont come out without taking the flywheel off

Get a screw driver or a small chisel and break up the spiget bearing. Keep the tool away from the crankshaft where the bearing is inserted.

...

fullsunian wrote:If it were me I would be taking the flywheel off. On a CU air cooled it wont come out without taking the flywheel off

Oh is nick the fish's van Aircooled?
The bolts are done up very very very tight so a breaker bar and pole will be needed

don't throw the towel in ... your a clever human being and you can beat a silly bolt and bearing

I fill your pain
I spent saturday doing the same job, it took me all morning, in the end i found a sharp punch worked.
all you need to do is just get under neath the outer of the bearing then it will all come out.
mine was welded in but with lots of shouting i won.
i also recommend shouting at the gearbox to get that back on
jt

This morning I changed the spigot bearing on my DJ engine that I’ve owned since new. In light of the contradictory advice offered here, I found the following:

Diameter of new spigot bearing = 21 mm and that of flywheel (025 105 273) opening = 19 mm . Also, press-fitted inside this opening is a spacer that keeps a felt seal ring (021 105 311) in place between it and the spigot bearing, further reducing the diameter of the opening to about 15 mm. This can be seen in nick the fish’s picture that he posted.

Removed the flywheel and found the bearing installed flush with the end of the crankshaft with the flat-lipped inscripted side of the cage facing the gearbox. Had it out within five minutes using the threaded part of a M10x150 rawl bolt and a short piece of 13 mm copper water pipe.

Perhaps on a diesel engine you can change it without removing the flywheel?

for sure you can replace the spigot bearing on a diesel WITHOUT removing the flywheel. It doesn't get in the way at all and you will only realise that you have gained nothing after you have removed it (or believe others that have done it first).
I found that the destruction method worked best, got a small screwdriver into the old bearing and smashed it about, removing it piece by piece. hoover helped (don't tell mrs)
as always, perserverence is the key

Sorry No, I own a 1.9 water cooled, no way that bearing was coming our without the flywheel being removed. Maybe my flywheel was after market or something but like icosahedron says, the diameters were totally different. managed to crack the flywheel bolts by using the tyre iron on the end of ratchet. took a risk and re-used the bolts as the condition seemed fine and again lots of contradicting statements on the re-use of these.

There is no risk in my opinion... and quite a few others with far more experience than I
the bolts are reusable

The torque settings in the Haynes and the Bentley are STOOOOOOPIDLY tight plus 90 degrees and we (me and Tonion) managed to break a set 3 years ago ... now that's interesting when that happens

Done another set last weekend on the bench and we all settled for very tight ... me on the ratchet and Steve on the pulley end.

Ian