Club 80-90 Forums

is the oil buzzer related to the spark plugs and HT leads in any way?

Here is the full scenario:

I changed the spark plugs, HT leads, Dizzy cap and rotor arm yesterday on my 2.1MV (syncro). The plug in cylinder 3 was a complete S.O.B to get out, shattering and bending and stripping the threads pretty well. Now, I don't care much for a lecture, but I managed to get a new plug back in without rethreading or helicoiling or anything, but I did chip the ceramic tip a little (pinky fingernail size right by the tip). The van runs fine while driving, but the sloppy tick over I was experiencing is still present. This morning while driving to work, the oil light started flashing, the buzzer sounded and the temp light started flashing. I sorted the temp light easily as i hadn't tensioned the new auxiliary belt enough, but the buzzer keeps coming on regardless of speed and revs. As per Laurie Pettitt's comment on the WIKI, my tappets aren't noisy and the only other screaming obvious sign that there is an oil problem is the fact that it dribbles up the filler tube and all over the hot tinwear above the exhaust.

This van is doing my nut! The camper has pootled about for four years without so much as a flat tyre but this syncro is breaking down every few days now. Bad choice for a work van!

Thanks in advance!

Have you dislodged the wiring loom where the 2 oil pressure wires go in the back left corner of the engine bay ?

Ian

You know what, I bet they are the two annoying wires I kept having to push out of the way! Three hours in to changing one spark plug I wasn't being too delicate

Thanks Ian, i'll be back in five with a progress report!

Had a look at the connection and it was bright green inside, so the slightest of movements would have messed any minor connections in there. Take it for a spin now and hope for no noise!

Buzzer on within 200 meters

Broken wire ?

check the wires are connected to the senders still, if you have been pulling.
its common for the wires between the twin connector block and the loom where it junctions in the black box to rot, they are constantly going from hot to cold with a splattering of wet from the road. Mine did exactly the same , looked fine, but was broken inside in the 6" between the white connector and the black water tight box.

if you keep the revs lower than 2000rpm does it stay off?

No, the revs are having no effect whatsoever. The light is flashing too, not a solid light but no flickering, it's a definate flash.

Sensor between the pushrods has a good connection, but the front one under the water pump is splattered in oil and clearly took a wallop when the fan belt snapped on Saturday. I shall be able to drive knowing my oil pressure is ok, but put up with the noise of the buzzer for now.

Anyone know the part number

chuckle-bus-tom wrote: but the front one under the water pump is splattered in oil and clearly took a wallop when the fan belt snapped on Saturday.

NOW he says ! http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... ory_id=120

pah! half the story!!! lol!
rest easy and buy some ear plugs, but keep a really good eye on the oil and temp till you have replaced that sender

Buzzer on the whole way and temp light started flashing after 20 mins (only drove for 25-30mins). The temp gauge read normal though.

No good, booked into a garage running super hot, using even more oil and tappets are getting noisier with each mile.

I need piece of mind and assurance that the van is going to be there for me. Plus, it's all tax deductible....

Sounds like the pump or much worse bottom end lack of squeeze.

Ian