Page 1 of 1

oil light

Posted: 14 Jun 2006, 20:18
by chukaspaz
Hey,

as iv posted before my van is sounding a bit rubbish, with a ticking noise that increases in rate and volume when I apply throttle...I had a few suggestions to change the oil and filter which I will do when my part arrives from JK...however, in the meantime iv checked my oil and the level is fine but when the van is running the oil light is on and stays on...im confused. any reason for this? and is changing the tappets an expensive job? would it be easier to solve this problem by driving it to a secluded field and blowing the entire thing up?

cheers!!

Posted: 14 Jun 2006, 20:21
by Dan Wood
I'm no expert, but as far as I know:

The oil light warns you of low oil pressure rather than low oil level so it could well be trying to tell you something even though you have enough oil.

The hydraulic tappets (which are probably causing your noise) need oil pressure to work properly.

So it sounds like for some reason your oil pressure is too low. I'd be tempted to not run the engine until you can sort out the reason...

Posted: 14 Jun 2006, 20:28
by chukaspaz
hey,

cheers dan, how would I go about fixing the oil pressure? Iv retired the van to my drive now and its not going anywhere until the sound stops...cheers again!!

James.

Posted: 14 Jun 2006, 20:31
by Dan Wood
Someone clever will be along in a moment. Like I said, I'm no expert!

I could make some guesses....

Wrong type of oil
Busted oil pump
Severely worn engine parts!

Posted: 14 Jun 2006, 22:03
by Aidan
ok, petrol or diesel, pre or post 1986 ?
You need to diagnose wether the oil light is staying on because either a.) the connection to the sender is broken which is a faff but no real problem, or b. because your engine has no oil pressure.
which is expensive : )

to check wether it's a or b you need to do the wiring checks first and depending on that you may need to do oil pressure test.

normally on a petrol the oil warning comes on when you switch the ignition on and goes off when the engine starts. If it doesn't go out you need to check that the switch between 3 and 4 cylinder pushrods is connected to the dash and is working. The switch is normally closed (ie continuity) when engine is off and becomes open at 0.3 bar. There is a connector in the engine compartment where you can break the circuit and test the relative bits. If the continuity tests show that the sender is not switching then either the sender has failed or the oil pressure is too low to activate it - try another switch and do an oil pressure test

Posted: 14 Jun 2006, 23:05
by chukaspaz
hey,

its a petrol 1.9 water cooled, 1984. if it was the electrical problem would that still make the sewing machine noise its making right now? And if its the oil pressure problem, how expensive are we talking?

cheers!
James.