Club 80-90 Forums

Hey,

Went under the camper at half 8 this morning, was back indoors by half 9!!

Feckin broken cylinder head stud!!

Sure there's lotsa threads on this issue but TBH tooooo depressed to sift through them all!!

My question is simply do I continue with the strip down? (Even though I am working on the street and have no garage!!) Do I trust the hands of my local (reputable) garage? Or do I bite the bullet, buy second hand or sell my soul, and get re-con unit?

My heads mince, i'm p'd off, and could do with some sympathy and advice!!

Many thanks. X

Perhaps if you had read some posts before removing any nuts that lots of heat might have saved you from your woe
I guess your paying the price for your CBA

regarding the stud... You can remove them but that requires some patience and maybe some money... But not as much as a new engine
the stud is not screwed in tight, just tight enough to hold it in place.

Is th engine out?
It'a lot easier with it out
Six bolts, some pipes, connections and a skateboard and out it comes

Think you maybe misinterpreted. I have been reading posts on head removal for weeks/months and totally understand the "how it's done". In fact, head has been off twice already and presented no previous problems. Was just feeling too sorry for myself to start sifting through all the posts on the choices of "repair or replace".

You've swayed me more to the option of repair and I appreciate your advice. Money is tight and this would probably be the best option in this respect. Just bit concerned that it potentially costs more in the long run!!
I have read all those threads too!

Thanks again

In fact, head has been off twice already and presented no previous problems.

Have you used new studs or re-used the old ones? It would be interesting to hear other peoples opinions on new vs old studs. My background is aircraft engineering so to me re-using any studs, bolts etc is a definite no-no.

Havn't replaced studs yet. I personally wouldn't be replacing studs every time the head came off. Not at £220+ a set!!!
I agree that infrequent or inaccessible bolts/studs should be replaced with new, but also think this has to be carefully balanced with practicality, pressures and budget.
It's a tricky one and probably will come down to personal choice once again.
So........are you suggesting repair with new studs is more favorable than getting a second hand unit which might require new studs anyway?
Appreciate thoughts/comments.
Cheers.

are you suggesting repair with new studs is more favorable than getting a second hand unit which might require new studs anyway

No, all I was suggesting was if one stud has sheared after being used a few times then the others should be viewed as potential failure points in the future.

£227 against 300 to 400 for a clapped second hand one or £1000+ for a recon

I'd go with the studs
and use the saving on new rings

Sure there's lotsa threads on this issue but TBH tooooo depressed to sift through them all!!

see no mention of having the head off before
I can't read minds and assumed this was your first removal

Dragon wrote:My heads mince, i'm p'd off, and could do with some sympathy and advice!!

Many thanks. X

Lots of sympathy mate right PITA when that happens and even worse if you don't have a workshop and are doing it outside - still damm cold at the moment unless you are in the sun

Some things to think about - I am pressuming its a WBX?

1. Much easier to work on if out of van, even if you don't have a garage maybe a shed or something? can't see how you will get the stud out with the engine in situ anyway now, so it will have to come out.
2. Where has the stud snapped, near the top then you have something to grip onto, at the bottom then its hard work.
3. Why have you had the heads off before - other probs with the engine or is it a great engine with a snapped stud - answer would influence what I did next.....
4. If you can get the engine out then I would strip the ancillaries and get it to a machine shop (reputable) who will be much more experienced at getting broken studs out than your local garage (if you can't get the stud out yourself)

On the re-use of studs, from the research I have done and my own personal view would be if I was doing a full engine rebuild and I had any concerns over the studs condition (corrosion, pitting, signs of previous removal) I would replace. If you have had the head on and off a few times you may have stressed the studs. If it was the first time the engine was stripped and they looked really nice and clean I would re-use rather than taking the risk of them snapping when coming out. Again just IMHO, not saying i am an expert or anything.

Let us know how you get on and any other questions - or even if you just want a bit of moral support after a crap 1/2 hour - should be able to find some here

Cheers,

MM

I have been offered a "loan" of a friends fuel injected 2.1 (not sure of the engine code) and wondered if there are any compatibility issues when replacing a 1.9DG. Just realised that I should probably have started a new thread but will see what response comes back through this one first.
I am hoping this brings a small glimmer of hope

nope no issues

you could even put it on without the FE just put your inlet manifold on with the carb....
it's an easy swap, a path well trodden by lpg converted vanners.

I have a 2.1 on carb too
word of warning though... you'll not want to put your 1.9 back in so start saving up, 112 bhp is very addictive

Phew!!! Thank goodness for that!!
I had read somewhere about early 1.9DG's having a problem with oil cooler compatibility but the later style was ok? Didn't really understand what the problem could be TBH!!!
As regards manifold/carb swap. is there any benefit to not having fuel injection?
Hoping to make plans to swap engines within the next couple of weeks, your assistance is very much appreciated.
Cheers.

you can run it without the oil cooler plumbed in to the coolant system, or plumb into the rubber pipe work somewhere, its not critical so long as you dont thrash it esp from cold, which you wouldn't anyway. The coolant pipework has a an extra feed on the system for the cooler supplied engines. Just plug the cooler and leave, esp if you are going to refit your old motor.

I ran both a carbed 2.1 and a inj. I'd say the inj is more power and economical than the carbed, but typically this is down to my Peirburg carb getting on in years. One thing to consider is if the 2.1 lone engine has the lamba probe (MV code) your exhaust wont have a place for it. if its DJ then no issue as it has no lamda.

i may have missed it, but having re read this thread, i cant see any reference to the age of the OPs van, so lets not assume its a late van, it maybe a early, and so there will be a fair bit of swapping and faffing to install a 2.1

you need to change the water pump, thermostat housing, water pipes, and basically all the water pipes off the DG onto the 2.1
and, you will need to swap the carb over to the DJ too, or you will have water pipe issues and electrical woes, AND need to swap over all the fuel lines and install the electric fuel pump (if you swap to carb you need the fuel pump off the dg too)and technically the fuel tank will be wrong too.You will either need to run it on 97ron petrol or retime it to 5deg
its too much hassle to fit the FI into a DG powered van imo .....

Shepster fitted a 2.1 DJ in his '83 early water system
No dramas were encountered that could not be resolved very logically.

It was so simple in real terms it encouraged me to do it

Engine is 2.1 DJ. Had quick nosey round it this evening and if I'm taking full engine, pipework, electrical boxes, etc, then reckon it'll be fairly straight-forward.
Can anyone advise me on the inputs to the fuel injection electrical box on the left of engine bay? How do I connect to the loom of the 1.9 DG?
Advice and support appreciated as always.
Cheers.