Club 80-90 Forums

looking for something to spray onto the inside pannels of my van, obviously it needs to have some sort of pipe so i can apply it to all the hard to reach areas but i can only find waxoil, which is quite expensive to buy,wondered if anyone has tried anything else ?, want to spray into all the holes in the chassis rails and sills also.
cheers

C&D refinishers , watery lane Wednesfield, Wolverhampton offer a comprehensive waxoyling service

give them a call then you'll know how much you'll save by doing it yourself.

As for alternatives I've seen a bitumen based spray but I don't know if you can buy it from a shop

Waxoil is for furniture but Waxoyl is for vehicles etc. Waxoyl is & always was expensive but it is a very good product. It's been around at least 28 years that I know of, used to be made by Finnegans but now under the Hammerite brand name. Possibly the same company.

I've heard the army use a parafin and engine oil mix

in my time with the army i never heard any of my reme mates mention the parafin mix, but the fella who teaches car body restoration on our course sprays used engine oil under there. yesterday i undersealed my t25 with waxoyl, its expensive £16 per gallon, but rust removal and welding is more expensive....... warm it up, ad some white spirit, you can spray it on with an old paint spraygun if you have one lying around..

You aint gonna use 20 gallons of the stuff. dont try and skimp on it for a few quid.. what you really gonna save 10-20 quid?

As said, welding and paint will cost a lot more..

The 2.5L can with pressurising pump works well and if you stick in a bucket of hot water will go a long way as it will be thinner. you can use a bit of white spirit too, but use in a well ventilated area.

The bitumen stuff is rubbish and will be a pain to get off when welding is needed.

Excuse me for the dumb-but-related question.

This Waxoyl stuff, does it dry hard or just hang around looking gooey?

Drew, Waxoyl dries into a flexible coating ie.not brittle. If the surface is scratched the molecules will allegedly knit back together to form an
unbroken surface. Waxoyl is also water repellant which is probably the best thing about it.

I ask as I tested an area under a wheel arch using the pressure can & pump and the stuff still hasn't dried. Should I use a heat gun or something?

Drew wrote:.....Should I use a heat gun or something?

NO!!! I havn't read the instructions on a tin of Waxoyl for a few years
but I think that you should be very careful about what heat source you use near newly applied Waxoyl. I'm sure it contains some sort of solvent based stuff to help it spread when brushed or sprayed.

Let the Waxoyl dry naturally, no need to use artificial drying aids.

Read the instructions on the tin regarding flammability! Better safe than
sorry, ie.'van flambe'.

Hmm, van flambe........ would save money in the long run

It will never go rock hard, trick is NOT to put it on too thick..
wheel arches are best treated to a good stonechip protector after a bloody good clean and a scrub with a stiff brush..
Spray the chassis and underfloor parts with a nice even thin coat, then a week later do it again. it takes ages to dry off proper.. then has a nice heavy waxy feel..

Yep, dont go near it with a flame etc... not unless you realy want too!!!!

For the underbody and wheel arches I thinned down underseal with standard thinners and mixed in a bit of old engine oil then sprayed it on with an underseal gun, this I sprayed in every nook and cranny, If I see any signs of rust within the next few years I will be supprised.

For the interior, I used Waxoyl, I took all the door cards off and removed cupboards etc and sprayed everything I could.

Kerr

Waxoyl well worth the price and a gallon goes alooong way ..well worth the 16 squid....
allso been told(by a old timer) when spraying/brushing with oil/parrafin ior diesel /oil mix,s use NEW oil onley to many contaminants in used oil