Club 80-90 Forums

Hi all
I need to replace the brake hose set (trying to stop potential air leaks causing intermittent stalling) iv never done this b4 and dont really know where to look or to start

Any advise pics or precautions would be appreciated!

Items done already without resolving the stalling issues have been -
Vacume hoses
Choke pull down unit
Carb cleaned
Carb mounting gasket changed
Solenoid checked, visibly and audio clicking happening
Wireing checked seems ok
Fuel filters changed/cleaned inlet filter
Fuel pump push rod changed
HT Leads and plugs changed
Servo hose checked and re tightend off elbow
Idle valve checked and cleaned out
ignition amplifier checked for proper connection
Sprayed round everywhere i can think of with WD40 whe engine at op temp to check for leaks... no obvious ones found

So just thought id change these also as symptoms ie popping sound seem conclusive to air leaks..

Thanks in advance for any help in my battle to keep my sanity before a white coat is needed

Brickwerks sell servo hose

Hi Kev thanks for reply,
Il buy brake servo hose and replace, but wht exactly am i replacing cos the elbow off the manifold goes to a clear rigid plastic l shaped pipe which is attached to black pipe going threw the bulk head running the length of van.

So do i get the black lengthy of pipe by the meter to replace the lot ? or just the clear rigid pipe part and elbow ?

Sorry if the response is somewhat naive....

Its ok iv looked on Brickwerks... 175mm pipe will be changed asap .. fingers x'd yet again

Another stumbling block ... the brake servo hose is one long continuous piece running the full length full van, we are taliking meters not 175mm?
Where do i go from here

Do i replace the lot and if so with what?
T25 ownership is becoming laboursome

The servo hose baxters replace is the braided hose that comes off the inlet manifold to the one way valve 175mm apart

Remember the stalling problem we both seem to have, i think its now gone! It was not hose or vac pull down or fuel pump or all the other things i changed it turned out to be the ignition amplifier module. I changed it for a second hand one i got on eBay for £10 and its not coughed, stalled or back fired yet. The fault would normally have kicked in by now so the Ignition amplifier module seems to be the route of my trouble. Best of luck with yours Karl40
By the way eBay do servo hose 13mm in 500mm lengths for around £7.

Thanks Karl40...thats excellent news m8
i managed to come to the same conclusion today also and have also been looking around for a ignition module (iv posted full reply on your original post )

Now brake servo hose thingy Grrr!!!
Sorry Kev but i have a 90 degree elbow off the inlet manifold that then goes to a rigid clear pipe which then goes straight into the long pipe running through bulk head and full length of van....... so are you saying that the clear rigid plastic pipe is the part that is the servo hose which needs replacing as it isnt the braided type,?
Heres a couple of pics



one way valve whats that look like ? please

This is so frustrating
Thanks for your time Kev its really appreciated.

That is the later pipe and its fine.
You don't need a hose

The one way valve is small and circular.
It prevents air returning to the servo once sucked out of the pipe.

Point is....if the vacuum pipe was leaking it would effect the brake pedal feel (servo action) in some way ...a couple of questions to determine if this pipe, the servo or the one way valves are leaking:
1) Have you a reserve vacuum (3 - 4 pumps before the pedal goes hard...engine off)
2) Does the pedal ever go hard whilst driving
3) To test....evacuate the system by pumping the brake pedal (engine off) until it goes hard, then apply light pressure to the pedal whilst starting the engine....the pedal should sink slightly and regain it's springy action.
4) Without touching the brake brake pedal, does the tone of the engine 'TICKOVER' change when you 'clamp off' the pipe at the engine?

Martin

To be fair martin you only need a minute hole in the hose to affect mixture which wouldn't affect braking so that you'd notice.
My hose leaked like a colander but breaking was never an issue.

nice set of instructions for a test though.

Fair enough Kev, I agree, a small leak wouldn't effect the brakes but then a leak so small wouldn't cause the engine to stall either....
Perhaps the best way to check for a possible leak would be to pull off both pipe ends, seal at the servo and apply good old fashioned mouth sucking action from the engine side end (note* the one way valves can be hard to overcome by mouth but it is possible). Or better still use a vacuum gun with gauge so you can see if the vacuum is disapearing. I admit not an easy task.


Martin

Hi and thanks for the reply guys .. really appreciated!

Firstly i have found that the Oil tower was not bolted down properly, it was really loose like the previous owner had just hand tightened the bolts on
Im hoping that this is the air leak i have been looking for? my guess atm

As for stalling there was another member on here Karl40 that has resolved his internittent stalling by replacing the ignition amplifier/module - which i will be ordering on Wednesday (either from Brickwerks or perhaps a ebay second hand unit)?

Fingers and toes X'd yet again

Kev
Just as a thought can you see a non return valve from the pics? ... cos im going to try the test Martin suggested ie taking pipe off both ends and sucking on it - seems that this is the general testing method fo most things VW

yes the one way valve is just after the elbow.
the oil breather tower has nothing to do with air leaks, or I'd have mentioned it.