Club 80-90 Forums

Hello,

I have noticed that going from 1st to 2nd can be a little tricky, it resists a bit, especially when cold and not been used for a while.

I am thinking I should check/change the gearbox oil. Can anyone give me a step by step method, I.e. Starting with how to locate the fill and drain plugs etc.

GL4 spec gearbox oil is the most suitable?


My van is a 1988 1.6 TD JX

Thanks

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... drain_plug

any good?

oil change a good plan

when cold all 4 speed boxes (and syncros) are a little slow first to second, five speed 2nd to 3rd, if you rush it you will crunch it, the more you crunch it the worse it gets; most noticeable on vehicles which live(d) on a hill where you have to rush the change to keep the momentum

the reason is simply that the lower pinion shaft which has 1st/2nd (2nd/3rd) synchro and gears on it is sat in the cold oil which is very thick and the oil is slow to get out of the way when you try and select the gear so the synchro ring can't move the oil aside quick enough to get hold of the gear and slow it down (synchronise) in time for the sliding hub to engage with the dogs on the gear and lock it up

semi sythetic or synthetic GL4/GL5 dual spec oils will make it a little better and warm up quicker, but years of numpties rushing the change will have left their mark on the dogs (pointy bit which are engaged by the synchro) on the gear and the sliding hub so it will never be perfect especially when very cold

and a measured slow gear change first time or two will help minimise further damage to the dogs

Thanks for the replies so far guys,.

I have had a look on the Wicki, which has helped a bit.

It's a 5 speed box, I find it tricky between 1 st and 2nd gear changes. I took the van out for the first time in a month or so, on a good run, is there any technique I can try on the clutching and declutching? I drive a newish car to day, so this is all a but different!

I will try and stay in first a little longer and see if tha helps too. It's hard though, as natural reaction seems to be to get up the gears asap.

Thick question now, looking from the engine bay, where should the fill plug be? Does it have a plastic cap over it by any chance?

Also, the drain plug, what is the most practical way to access this?

Thanks!

mikeymancs wrote:It's a 5 speed box, I find it tricky between 1 st and 2nd gear changes. I took the van out for the first time in a month or so, on a good run, is there any technique I can try on the clutching and declutching? I drive a newish car to day, so this is all a but different!

Thick question now, looking from the engine bay, where should the fill plug be? Does it have a plastic cap over it by any chance?

Also, the drain plug, what is the most practical way to access this?

Thanks!

I never met anyone who got on well with their 5 speed dogleg, everyone I've ever talked to has the same comments about awkward engagement and by the time they have sellected 2nd they have slowed too much etc.
My experience has been literally to change my driving mind set, slow down and relax, don't rush, be positive but allow time for the gearbox to do it's thing. No special technique apart from a pause between each gear change, a sort of 'FEEL' for when the syncro is happiest to engage.
People get anxtious because their 'mind set' remains in VAUXHALL VECTRA mode when it needs to be reset to the 'CHILL T3' setting.

Both bungs are accessed from underneath....looking from the engine bay that's right side behind the gear sellector rod, half way up the box for the filler bung and underneath centre of box for drain....make sure you can shift BOTH bungs before draining the oil.
Some use a long hose and refill through the O/S/R wheel arch.
Martin

on a lot of 5 speeds now the alloy guides and the nylon bushes at the bottom of the gearstick have become worn and accuracy of the gear selection isn't great - the alloy guides are I believe available again from classic parts but the nylon guides are part of the gearstick - I'm gently pushing Ian SB to bring a repair kit to market, but it will take some time like anything to get it right, in the meantime as Martin says, slow and careful

. People get anxtious because their 'mind set' remains in VAUXHALL VECTRA mode when it needs to be reset to the 'CHILL T3' setting.

I think this sums it up, I need to try and take my time and not get too stressed about it. Have just dug out some paperwork and it look as though it was changed about 18 months back... Do I need to check the level or anything? I understand replace every three years?

if it isn't leaking then it shouldn't be necessary to check the level

Thanks Aidan and Martin, appreciate your help.

Slow and steady is the way forward...ohhhh eerrrrrr