Club 80-90 Forums

I seem to be a numpty when it comes to electrics and associated devices - or they have a habit of having annoying issues not easy to spot (like my brand new fridge that had the sticker stating the - & + the wrong way round)

Anyway I digress:
The eber fires up, I can hear the ticking of the pump
It starts to throw out nice hot air
lasts for a few minutes (max 10) then shuts down
restarts but pump doesn't start

It has the rotary thermostat controller

Any idea on how I can check it over please? or what the problem is please?

Checked the following:
fuel is being pumped
cleaned the filter on pump
battery was saying 11.5volts

What should I check please?

Battery looks a good bet. You need more than 11v at the heater (Not at the battery before start) whilst it is trying to start. Low voltage = no startee.

Checked the split charge and it is feeding enough volts to recharge the leisure battery.

Turned the eber on with the engine running. It still does the same, runs for about 4 minutes, gets nice and hot then shuts down

I checked the cable going to the eber, it was getting at least 12v

Any help on what to do next please?

If the voltage is correct i'd recommend going to your local BT depot and asking them to read your fault codes. They did mine for free (i put a few quid in their tea fund).

Simple thing to check first is the fuel gauze around the glow plug - but it doesnt sound like that to me....

How old is the eber Leon?

Ringo

More importantly - what model?
And D or B?

Its a D2 and it is 7 years old

From the manual.

Overheat shut down will occur if there is a restriction of the
heating air flow (i.e. blocked inlet or outlet). The overheat
sensor will automatically reset once the heater has cooled
down.
• Once the air flow restriction is removed, the heater can be
re-started by switching the heater off then back on.
• If the voltage drops below 10.5 volts or rises above 16
volts the heater will shut down (21 volts and 28 volts for 24
volt systems).
• If the glow pin circuit or fuel metering pump circuit are
interrupted the heater will not start.
• The blower motor is checked on start
up and continuously during operation.
Shut down will occur if the blower does
not start or maintain proper speed.

Temperature related shutdown could be the overheat sensor or the onboard ambient temperature sensor thinking it has reached the desired temperature.
Check for dead mice/sweet wrappers/navel fluff restricting the air flows in and out.
You could use an external temp sensor instead of the one on the heater itself (with poor air circulation this will shut it down quickly)
The voltage needs to be monitored at the actual heater rather than anywhere else whilst it is running. Poor joints/connections/inadequate wiring can lead to a voltage drop causing a shutdown.

Thanks for all of that. I'll have to have a look next weekend.

Scott, I may go searching for the local BT depot unless I can find a local 80-90er with a fault code reader.

Had a look on Sunday again - the battery was reading a nice healthy 12.8v.
Sadly the eber went through the same routine

Switch on
front fan starts spinning
about 30-60 secs later pump starts ticking
eber starts to speed up
heat comes out
two minutes later eber picks up speed
one minute later eber slows down
eber then switches off and cool down fan runs.

Just read something about Return Ducting if using the Rheostat controller. Could this be the answer?? The eber might not be reading the correct temp of the van interior - the eber is tucked under the bed in a box frame

Louey if you have the same rotory controller that I had then there should be a green light on the dial when you turn it on.

When the Eber cuts out does this green light flash? If so take note of the sequence and length of the flashes as this is sort of a morse code which tells you what the fault is. If you have or can get a copy of the Eber manual there is a section in the back which tells you what the flashing sequences mean.

For example

. . . . . may be low voltage
_ _ _ _ _ may be no fuel
. _ . _ . _ may be overheat etc.

Lewis, i wouldnt be too concerend about the ducting. Clutching at straws me thinks

I had the same problem, and it was the overheat sensor that had gone. The only way i found this out was to replace the heat sensor with a resistor (i think it was 4K7 but i cant remember - found out from the manual (it may be in the wiki)). Once i had found that it was the sensor that was wrong, i could then shell out the £50 to buy the sensor!

I was reading that someone had found a cheap alternative to this - i'd be please to know if there is one....

Get the fault code read if Martins suggestion doesnt work (my rotary LED didnt flash but i wish it did).

Cheers,

Ringo

Cheers guys

Yep green light doesn't flash on mine either Ringo.

There is a blue/white striped wire that doesn't go anywhere (not sure where it went before I did some re-routing of wires) it is meant to be the diagnostics wire to the controllers but the manual says I don't use it with the rheostat controller.

Gonna try and find the local BT depot.

What temperature are you getting at the hot air outlet?

Oldiebut goodie wrote:What temperature are you getting at the hot air outlet?

I don't have the equipment to be precise but it is quite toasty warm

Louey wrote:

Oldiebut goodie wrote:What temperature are you getting at the hot air outlet?

I don't have the equipment to be precise but it is quite toasty warm

When mine lets rip i cant put my hand against it for long as its that hot. Not very scientific but i would say its a lot hotter than toasty warm

Ringo