Club 80-90 Forums

I am struggling to get my van to run when the engine is off choke, so I was hoping there might be someone out there who would be willing to come to my home to help me get the old girl running as she used too.

Hope someone can help

Jim

Don't fancy having a go your self?

Thats the problem I have had a go already and only made it worse. I've reconditioned the carb refitted and it runs sweet as a nut on choke but as it warms up it gets more and more lumpy then stops

I don't know what I'm looking at so, think it better to gain some expert help.
Jim

I've just started using a bloke called Rich Talbot he lives in Cheddleton same as me, so far so good really nice bloke and he owns a splittie and bay his number is 07737715402 hope he can help you out.

cheers will call him tomorrow

climberjim wrote:Thats the problem I have had a go already and only made it worse. I've reconditioned the carb refitted and it runs sweet as a nut on choke but as it warms up it gets more and more lumpy then stops

I don't know what I'm looking at so, think it better to gain some expert help.
Jim

Rough idle after warm up certainly reads like you have a choke problem or an air leak
May I ask when it is running during warm up does the rectangular choke flap slowly open, then when it's fully open is this when the trouble starts?

could you describe it to us.

If not Then I would suggest Gasure near Chester is well worth the wait

Hi,

Mine had similar problem due to knackered brake servo pipe (causing air leak as Kev suggests) - fine with choke on as its richer, choke off runs like poo due to all the extra air going in.

Worth checking for air leaks and the action of your choke flap as Kev suggests before opening up your wallet to a mechanic.

If its a pierberg carb Kev is a master, if its a weber carb replacement I can help, and if its an air leak there are loads of people who can help.

The fact that it runs so well on choke suggests that the solution isn't far away....

Cheers,

Alex

When the engine runs the flap does slowly open, is this what should happen? Then after two mins or so it seems to start sounding like its misfiring this gets more and more rough then it stalls. I have a pierburg carb a 2e, it was sent to a man in bromyard who serviced it and tuned it on two engines one with 120 000 and another with 80 000miles all seals have been replaced plus a list of other things as long as my arm. Where else could air leak in I would love to sort this myself but worry that i will make it worse

you have an air leak
usual suspects for this are..
the vacuum pipe ends as they are made with perishable rubber and rot.
try changing those (available from halfords
Or one of them has come away from it's place. There are two pipes from the back of the carb
The Choke pull down unit has a diaphragm in it and is prone to failure, simple check is to pull the hose to it off the carb and suck...if you can keep sucking without stopping then the diaphram has failed
The brake servo hose again although braided is made from rubber and will leak air into the manifold
Finally gaskets they might look solid but a crack will suck air into the manifold

any help?

I will get busy in the morning, my vacuum pipes are thin plastic with a bradded rubber bit on the end, should they have jubilee clips on the fittings. Also some of the large pipes from the heat exchanger are broken could this affect it.

I will do the checks and the get back to you.

The Choke pull down unit has a diaphragm in it and is prone to failure, simple check is to pull the hose to it off the carb and suck...if you can keep sucking without stopping then the diaphram has failed
The brake servo hose again although braided is made from rubber and will leak air into the manifold
Finally gaskets they might look solid but a crack will suck air into the manifold

any help?[/quote]

Not sure where the ckoke pull down hose is, also where is the brake servo hose.

cheers Jim

climberjim wrote:I will get busy in the morning, my vacuum pipes are thin plastic with a bradded rubber bit on the end, should they have jubilee clips on the fittings. Also some of the large pipes from the heat exchanger are broken could this affect it.

I will do the checks and the get back to you.

OK no clips required, to be sure though try to
get some new connectors from halfords
Then a smear of silicon grease if you wanted to be OTT where they push on

broken heat exchanger pipes play no part in your problem

climberjim wrote:
Not sure where the ckoke pull down hose is, also where is the brake servo hose.

cheers Jim

The choke pull down unit is a black plastic item
fixed to the carb, circular in shape with a black plasic hose coming from it that plugs into the carb a little further down.

The servo hose runs off the manifold on the left hand side (as you look in the engine bay) it then runs up to the bulkhead, where it meets a circular one way valve and a hard plastic pipe.
It's about 6 ins long and braided
if it is not the braided type then leave it

Thanks for all your help kev. I've spent the day tinkering and she now runs much better, I think the vacuum pipe was very perished and part of the problem. Once the engine was capable of running until it was hot, I was able to adjust the mixture so that she is now running better than before there was a problem.

No mechanic needed

Knowledge is power, I'm much better off for doing it myself thanks for the push.
Jim

Hey that is good news
just happy to help
steady though, I think the engine stripdown is a little way off.
But in real terms it's what this forum is all about giving you the power to decide whether to tackle it with help or use a garage


oh and thanks for coming back and thanking everyone...