Club 80-90 Forums

Hi All

My 1981 air cooled 2ltr bus has a 009 dizzy on it since I bought it, and I have read so much on here about how bad it is for the engine life etc.
I would love to put the old vacuum set up back on but do not have the parts, and cant buy them anywhere. It runs ok but not great.

Would fitting an electronic ignition be a better alternative to the 009 if so what sort and where from or am I talking cobblers???

Thanks for any advice. Jay

have you checked out this information?

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Pe ... gnition_02

Put a wanted add up and get yourself an original dizzy/amp/coil and loom. Then you can bin the 009

Make sure you get the "right" dizzie etc. for your engine. I bought a complete set up second-hand that turned out to be off a DF engined van. The part numbers on the dizzie, ecu, and idle stab are all different to what should be fitted to a CU engine.

Helo,

If this will help..

viewtopic.php?f=39&t=77581&start=0

I am still working on this, but the system seems good, I am timed at about 8' BTDC.

No pinking, no overheating.

Pay particular attention to the bit regarding the resistance of your coil.

I am running on 95 octane unleaded, with no overheating probs noted.

I see no reason why this should not apply to larger swept volume engines.

Cordialement,

Hi Guys thank you for the reply's.

Still not sure what to do but will keep an eye out for old usable parts.

I DO HAVE THE OLD DIZZY but the hall sensor is missing can these be refurbed?????

Cheers Jay

http://www.justkampers.com/shop/t25/ori ... 10729.html

Cheers Boxy

That may be the part I need I will dig out the old Dizzy that came in a box of bits when I bought my camper.

Not sure what else would have been removed when the 009 was fitted, I have no clue how to go about getting the vacuum hoses connected up again and timing etc. is there anyone in Bedfordshire area that has an Air cooled T25 I could have a nose at to see what goes where, or even a DIY dude or garage.

Damn it's cold

Hello,

Have you still got the idle control (black box) and the amplifier (aluminium heat sink thing) screwed to the left hand side of the engine compartment?

All the wiring and piping is in Haynes.

Cordialement,

Hi Sarran

I think those parts are still there I will double check as soon as I get a minute.

Cheers Jay

This is the idle stabaliser and ecu / amplifier on the left hand side of the engine bay. You can see three pins on my idle stab box, I think there should be a plastic shroud protecting them but it must have been broken off by a previous owner. It seems a lot of people leave it disconnected anyway and just connect the two plugs for it together.
And here's a link showing some else's vac hoses which I hope is right because its the one I'm going to copy.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m263 ... -Engin.jpg

Hopefully as soon as the van thaws out I'll have a go at de-009-ing mine.

Hi Guys

Good news is I still have the 2 boxes on the left and all connections are intact Vacuum hoses also there so all I need to do
is fit a new hall sensor in the old dizzy, is there anything else on the dizzy that should be refurbished other than the points cap etc. ??

Cheers All. Jay

Hopefully you won't have points.

Hello,

Clean all the contacts carefully, including the tip of the rotor arm.

Basically it will either work ok or not.

The trouble with this system is that it is difficult to diagnose faults.

The most common is the Hall sensor in the distributor, not expensive, and not exclusively VW.

Check the timing, as it is often AFTER tdc.

Cordialement,

sarran1955 wrote:Hello,

Clean all the contacts carefully, including the tip of the rotor arm.

Basically it will either work ok or not.

The trouble with this system is that it is difficult to diagnose faults.

The most common is the Hall sensor in the distributor, not expensive, and not exclusively VW.

Check the timing, as it is often AFTER tdc.

Cordialement,

Timing on a CU should be 5 AFTER tdc