Club 80-90 Forums

I have heard from somewhere that replacing the UJs in the syncro propshaft is not as straightforward as these joints usually are. Can anyone expand on that please as my manual gives no details whatsoever for servicing the propshaft?

Normally it is just a case of removing the circlips, knocking out the old bearing cups and then rebuilding with the new joints. What can make it more complex?

thanks
Garyd

What can make it more complex...

Knocking out the old ones, in the right order

backlash
I take them to GKN, it's just so not worth doing your own imho

it's just so not worth doing your own imho

Ask him how he knows.....go on....

a prop shaft repaire place will or should also balance the prop for you as well,

neil

v-lux wrote:

it's just so not worth doing your own imho

Ask him how he knows.....go on....

that one was one of the better ones , I did it again and it vibed but didn't come apart and then it was eventually done again by GKN and is now fine lesson learned

black art, that's why there's nowt in Bentley and £590 plus vat exchange from VW

I've spoken to GKN about the correct way to do them, there is no correct way, they do them the same as everybody else!
They also don't supply circlips in different thicknesses on their own nor is there any special tools to do the job, or measure the backlash.
It's all down to feel.

Thanks for these responses.

What I am gathering is that the manufacture of the propshaft is subject to significant variabilities which require to be taken out by minute adjustment of the location of the UJ bearings within the yokes. This being done by fitting circlips of varying thicknesses. The result of doing this properly is to centre the shaft tube with the end plates?

From Simon's last reply it is not possible to buy these variable circlips, so refurbishing the shaft becomes a GKN-only job. Is that about right?

Is it more likely that the UJs are built to tighter tolerances than the shaft and that using the old circlips would give a better alignment with new bearings?

thanks
Garyd

The UJ GKN supply and sell is an acricultural item, there is an automotive version of the same joint but higher spec.
If you would care to take a seat, I will tell you the price...
Well, one joint is over £100 [to me] and GKN have never stocked one in the UK.
They always use the agricultural one.

anyone got experiences of the sliding prop replacement that i`ve seen for sale.

The prop thats on mine right now has a sliding joint in it. I'd never buy one personally, it rattles like a goodun.

Cant see the use of having the sliding joint for our vans at all.

There is only one size for the joint and that is what sets the play to zero - a perfect 'set' of the cups on the spiders and in the yokes - the circlips should just fully register in their grooves.

If the yokes splay a bit when squeezing in the cups, then just dolly her up and strike the thing a fair to medium blow with the copper mallet.. to jump them into shape. The circlips will then just register perfectly and there will be no end play in either plane.

So the tools are:

Circlip pliers
Eyes
Alternate Clamp/dolly - Heavy vice
Non-malling but firm mallet (e.g. copper)
Eyes
Circlip pliers

Meticulous cleaning helps the re-assembly

===========================================

I'm told with skill & experience the job can (sometimes some cars have to) be done in situ using G-clamps

The UJ's from Brickyard are correct and can be fitted perfectly

The prop on mine has no rubber doughnut and is a one piece shaft.
The bearing cups were peened into place.
Is the prop likely to be an original?

Would have been much happier to see circlips, and would have
had a go myself (subject to quality parts availability).
As it was I could not see how I was going to
centre the joint, so it went away to be done.

I had mine done recently having quite vibration. UJ, s from BY and fitted by recoprop luton, they didn,t balance it but now vibes gone. IIRC £30 per uj fitting. easier than DIY

by all means have a go yourself, but I've done five or six with only limited success and the correct tools, so now I pay someone who's good at it to do it. I've just bought an old 1.9 one without donut and I'll get GKN to do their thing on it - it feels fine one end and digital but tight at the other it's probably ok but weight has come off and very rusty generally so worth a fettle I think