Club 80-90 Forums

Will be changing the clutch on my new purchase and was trying to see what i needed, and is there one place i can get all the bits. like brickwerks.
Want to try to cover any sensible eventuality's.
I know i need a clutch, would it be sensible to get a spigot bearing, crankshaft seal ect as these parts are relatively cheap?
Don't really want to dismantle and then find i need a £3 part.
A little list would be great.
Also is there a little step by step guide for changing the clutch. I'm probably going to get my neighbour mechanic to do it for me, and it would be good to give him a little guide.
Many thanks, Lloyd

Obviously clutch friction plate, diaphragm
Spigot bearing- cheap enough so might aswel
Realease bearing- check the realease arm

If you are changing the output seal cheap again I would recommend new flywheel bolts.

Also while the engine is out and you don't know the history of the engine do a cambelt change including tensioner plus while your there change the crank seal again easy to do, possibly if your going that far water pump to just because it may save in the long run.

As for the job it's not hard just make sure you can get the van high enough to get the engine from under the van.
Other than that piece of cake.

armyphil wrote:Obviously clutch friction plate, diaphragm
Spigot bearing- cheap enough so might aswel
Realease bearing- check the realease arm

If you are changing the output seal cheap again I would recommend new flywheel bolts.

Also while the engine is out and you don't know the history of the engine do a cambelt change including tensioner plus while your there change the crank seal again easy to do, possibly if your going that far water pump to just because it may save in the long run.

As for the job it's not hard just make sure you can get the van high enough to get the engine from under the van.
Other than that piece of cake.

Why are you taking the engine out to change the clutch?

armyphil wrote:Obviously clutch friction plate, diaphragm
Spigot bearing- cheap enough so might aswel
Realease bearing- check the realease arm

If you are changing the output seal cheap again I would recommend new flywheel bolts.

Also while the engine is out and you don't know the history of the engine do a cambelt change including tensioner plus while your there change the crank seal again easy to do, possibly if your going that far water pump to just because it may save in the long run.

As for the job it's not hard just make sure you can get the van high enough to get the engine from under the van.
Other than that piece of cake.

Cheers for that phil

syncropaddy wrote:

armyphil wrote:Obviously clutch friction plate, diaphragm
Spigot bearing- cheap enough so might aswel
Realease bearing- check the realease arm

If you are changing the output seal cheap again I would recommend new flywheel bolts.

Also while the engine is out and you don't know the history of the engine do a cambelt change including tensioner plus while your there change the crank seal again easy to do, possibly if your going that far water pump to just because it may save in the long run.

As for the job it's not hard just make sure you can get the van high enough to get the engine from under the van.
Other than that piece of cake.

Why are you taking the engine out to change the clutch?

Is it better to remove the box then?
Can the above work still be done?

I've only done two syncro clutches, one on a DJ and one on a JX and I did them both with the engine in situ. While you have the box out you can do the tank straps as well .....

You trying to say i've got rusty straps
So a basic clutch swap turns into replacing lots of bits, so this is the joy of syncro ownership i've heard so much about

You'd probably be the first syncro onwer since the 1990's to not have rusty straps if you havnt.

v-lux wrote:You'd probably be the first syncro onwer since the 1990's to not have rusty straps if you havnt.

well the wife does say i'm special

Didnt they replace the clutch when they put the new engine in? I would have thought this would have been done as routine unless the clutch is slipping due to lack of spigot baring maybe?

jed

jed the spread wrote:Didnt they replace the clutch when they put the new engine in? I would have thought this would have been done as routine unless the clutch is slipping due to lack of spigot baring maybe?

jed

I've got the guy to rebuild the head, so he didn't remove the engine. Can't remember how old that engine is. 30,000 odd miles rings a bell
Have been told the clutch is starting to slip at high revs

lloydy wrote:

jed the spread wrote:Didnt they replace the clutch when they put the new engine in? I would have thought this would have been done as routine unless the clutch is slipping due to lack of spigot baring maybe?

jed

I've got the guy to rebuild the head, so he didn't remove the engine. Can't remember how old that engine is. 30,000 odd miles rings a bell
Have been told the clutch is starting to slip at high revs

lloydy .... something isnt adding up here in my mind.

syncropaddy wrote:

lloydy wrote:

jed the spread wrote:Didnt they replace the clutch when they put the new engine in? I would have thought this would have been done as routine unless the clutch is slipping due to lack of spigot baring maybe?

jed

I've got the guy to rebuild the head, so he didn't remove the engine. Can't remember how old that engine is. 30,000 odd miles rings a bell
Have been told the clutch is starting to slip at high revs

lloydy .... something isnt adding up here in my mind.

probably me confusing things, i've known about the clutch from the beginning. Kinda reflected in the price i paid. I'm not worried about it [rightly or wrongly, hopefully rightly] I was just going to get it done at a local place, and wanted to get together the parts most likely needed so it wasn't sat there waiting for a part.

Have been told the clutch is starting to slip at high revs

Well, the first place it'd start slipping would be lower to middle revs, that's where the torque is..

If YOU can't make it slip climbing a hill at 2000 rpm with the turbo coming in, then don't let anyone kid you it's slipping at say 4000 rpm when there is half the torque

==========

Gearbox out, lots of things to do and check, so make a good meal of it, tidying up if nothing else and spraying some rust-preventative a round for fun..

Good clutch-change info in the Wiki, always check the Wiki...

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... tch_change

Most of the other links are on that page too...

Personally if I was going that far ie taking out the engine would drop the gearbox with it as one unit and you can do everything on the ground only another few bolts and a lot easier to align the engine and box plus you can have a good look around and check things like afore mentioned tank straps + crossmembers change your seals even oil pump etc

jebiga41 wrote:Personally if I was going that far ie taking out the engine would drop the gearbox with it as one unit and you can do everything on the ground only another few bolts and a lot easier to align the engine and box plus you can have a good look around and check things like afore mentioned tank straps + crossmembers change your seals even oil pump etc

See its starting to cost already !!