Club 80-90 Forums

Thanks for the reply Kev. Water is coming out of the header tank inside the engine bay to the left. I don't believe it is full to the brim but i did top up the tank that is accesible via the number plate flap inbetween the marks you mentioned. It is actually coming out from the seal of the cap on the header once the van is hot and will only start happening when the van has been running for 10-15 mins as we have tried to rev it. Now you say about the carb it does sound like it's over fueling, the van took a good 10 or so minutes for the rev's to settle (for the choke to switch off) but as we thought it was warm then and tried to rev the engine it was still sounding the same and when the rev's settled the engine just wanted to stall. Everytime we started the engine (without any trottle) after that it was fine till the rev's settled and just wanted to stall again. We did take the pancake style filter off last night while it was running (there is only two bolts holding it on,the third is missing) as when the rev's did drop all we could hear was a sucking or leaking noise but this maybe normal? Back to the water, as the engine has had some kind of rebuild im wondering if anything has not been set up properly and also if the water system needs bleeding? Someone i know said that they had the same problem with water coming out of there header and they bled it and it was fine and the heater started working also?

maffas wrote:Back to the water, as the engine has had some kind of rebuild im wondering if anything has not been set up properly and also if the water system needs bleeding? Someone i know said that they had the same problem with water coming out of there header and they bled it and it was fine and the heater started working also?

This could well be the problem. If you have an air lock, then the water can't circulate and could well give you the carb. problems you mention. Does the heater on your van work when the rest of the system has apparently warmed up? Usually, the air lock will be at the highest point of the system.

My experience of shifting them is to leave the pressure cap off and run the engine for a while until the air lock blows out - literally too! - of the expansion tank. Will very probably take a while and the engine will get very hot, so keep a close eye on everything.

Replace the header tank cap with one of these ... http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... ory_id=118 and bleed the cooling system as described in the wiki at the top of the page here.

Ian

after kevs comment, maybe just try having the carb cleaned and set up right i had exactly same problems with one i rebuilt, but cause i'm rubbish with carbs i had local vw garge set it up and cleaned it and runs like a dream now, but my first thought that spring was broken etc

Hi,

Are you sure that it is a Pierburg, not a Weber conversion?

Only ask as they seem a surprisingly popular option for reconditioned engines, only have two bolts (the kit comes with a rubbish rubber bung to plug the third bolt hole in the standard air filter box which falls out after a few miles) and can suffer from really poor running, all three of which apply to you.....

Might be worth checking / posting picture of your carb before you follow through Kev's advice (although the basics tests he is suggesting would also work for the Weber, it would just look different)??

Cheers,

Alex

It's definately a pierburg as i looked before i posted!! Thanks anyway, still havn't got a chance to get it in my friends workshop yet to go through the advice and procedures ppl have suggested, so watch this space. Well imppressed with the feed back and help though, will follow up with what the crack is. P.s So you wouldn't suggest a weber conversion if my carb has gave up? I only ask as most ive spoke to recommend it and say it's more reliable? Just thinking ahead!

maffas wrote:So you wouldn't suggest a weber conversion if my carb has gave up? I only ask as most ive spoke to recommend it and say it's more reliable? Just thinking ahead!

No... weber is not the answer.
webers are not good on WBX engines, they work eventually with a lot of faffing and rolling road setting.. but even then, not nearly as well as the pierburg 2e3
There are a lot of folks on here can vouch for that too.

If you want to fit a better carburettor than the pierburg then twin Delorto 38's are the way forward.

Now if you accelerate or try to, when cold, the flap should open as you depress the accelerator, this is done by the choke pull down unit (the black plastic unit in fig 2)
if it does not the unit has failed and the engine is overchoking

Hi i have done this and also the suck test as previously advised to test the Choke pull down unit and it certainly does appear as this is the problem i am facing !