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Vactan question
Posted: 05 Oct 2010, 19:43
by sharpmz
Soooo.....
I've started attacking the van with vactan, all seems to be going well but i've noticed that after it goes on and dries black, a day or so later a faintish brown (rust coloured) patch/stain appears. Is this normal or have i got a duff bottle or have i applied it incorrectly? I followed the advice on various posts so pretty sure i've done it properly.... any thoughts?
cheers!
Re: Vactan question
Posted: 05 Oct 2010, 19:58
by CovKid
No normal. As long as the layer is consistent (ie no breaks in it) you have no problem. The difference in colour is noticeable where you get rust and clean metal in same area. You can apply another coat if you want to but the trick is to keep it thin. If the metal really isn't sound (ie is rusted on the reverse), if you don't get the other side it may well bubble through again.
The latter point is important since now and again someone will say Vactan doesn't work or similar and this is why. There are also times when replacing the metal with new is the only solution. Even Vactan has its limits.
By the way, when you say the word 'Vactan' it should always be said in a loud but deep super-hero type voice - it encourages it
Mind you, he looks more butch than super hero so not so sure now. You could try it in a very quiet camp voice.

Re: Vactan question
Posted: 06 Oct 2010, 07:47
by sharpmz
Thanks for reply, tis reassuring! I'm trying to get it in everywhere back and front so hope to hold it at bay for a little while at least.
Happy to try both voices if it helps maybe even alternate!VACTAN vactan VACTAN vactan!!!!!!!!!!!
Re: Vactan question
Posted: 06 Oct 2010, 08:15
by CovKid
Yes it will slow it down and in some cases, stop it. I did this about a year before rollering mine so I was able to see exactly which areas were going to be a problem and which would stabilise. It soon becomes evident. Always decant Vactan into an old plastic container or jar before using or any rust can effect whats in the bottle.
Its also good in the bottom of doors, tailgate, slider etc. Vactan can be used either as a temporary treatment or permanent, depending on the area. For instance, I found that the edges of seams end up very rough due to pitting. You can clean these up to expose them, coat these with Vactan then wet sand back at a later date to get a more even finish then go straight over with Rustoleum to protect and seal it. Chickenkoop and I did a few experiments like that, using it as a kind of surface filler, and it worked well.
Its good stuff providing the rust is fully exposed and as much cleaned away as possible (you sometimes have to chip paint away around the area to find bright steel) prior to applying Vactan. You get much better results if you are really thorough to start with. Seams are very difficult to deal with unless you can get both sides at once and really rake out the rust and muck. Sometimes two attempts are needed to really stop it.
The 'big voice' Vactan thing came from the Roller DVD along with "Avvit!" and bizarrely, "Filler Fairy" which still amuses my kids no end.
Re: Vactan question
Posted: 06 Oct 2010, 11:39
by sharpmz
Thanks for the info, i can manage the Vactan! encouragement and the Avvit but i'm gonna have to draw the line at filler fairys!!
Had a good read through the original post so picked up on the seperate container thing early on thankfully. For going into the insides of doors, sliders etc do you need to clean them out first or just spray it in on top of what's there?
I'm managing to get most areas fully exposed using twist knot brush on a grinder, can be aggressive as everything is either underneath or behind panels at the mo and not started on the external body work..... yet.
I didn't plan on keying up the vactan on the internal hidden bits before a token splash of paint, should still stick ok shouldn't it?!?
Re: Vactan question
Posted: 06 Oct 2010, 13:12
by CovKid
Yep, you can paint over Vactan no prob. messing with it is only really applicable outside where you need a flatter surface. Sometimes helps to slightly key it if you've got huge areas where you've used it. As for bottoms of doors etc, I just dribbled it and let it find its own way out (or not as the case may be). Definately good in sliding doors which seem to rot out from what I've seen. When I did my windcreen lip repair, although I replaced all that had gone, it still got a 'VACTAN' treatment prior to painting. Didn't want to ever have to do that job again.
Avvit!

Re: Vactan question
Posted: 31 Oct 2010, 17:35
by foxley
I've found another use for this great product.
I cleaned my garden shed today and found some of my tools rusting a bit so I slapped on some vactan.
They look ok now if a little black.