Club 80-90 Forums

To install a r'n'r bed in a T25 do I need to make a bed base over the engine to raise it up?

Thanks in advance.

Depends. On mine the back drops straight down on to engine area. If you're making your own it pays to make a narrower (ie not full width) test dummy box so you can figure out the way the mechanism works and where it will end up. Invariably the test box will have screw/bolt holes all over it until you get the exact position right, at which point you transfer all these marks to the final seat.

Tip: If you make the seat too high, its not pleasant to sit on so a little trial and error is needed. Also allow for depth of cushions.

I originally had a wooden one but didn't feel remotely confident it was strong enough to hold any passenger firm in the back so developed/made a metal one which is going absolutely nowhere. Its bolted into the body using spreader plates. Again, when down I end up with a bed base that sits flat on the engine area.

I've just updated the WIKI article describing my DIY heavy duty seat so it has all the relevant photos in. It may help give you some idea of the basic construction and way it all works, even if you're making yours out of wood, which will be a three sided box, but measurements are similar. Use an angle finder (no I didn't mean 'grinder') to get the back of the seat base flush with the bulkhead when cutting the sides.

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ca ... R_bed_base

I had the same problem with the just kampers full width rnr bed I just fitted. It was supposed to be a specific fit for a t25 but it hovered over the back! I ended cutting 10cm off the bottom and bodging it that way. Not very impressed but it was only £25! It now works well na d seems sturdy enough.
When it is padded it will be about right hight wise. They are selling them cheap on the site but also cheaper on ebay where I got mine.
Rob.

i used the just campers hinges and made my own box section over the engine bay.

Makes for useful storahe but the engine is a bit of a faff to get at... cushion out, board out, rubber matting out and then finally engine lid off.

Makes me think i need to make it more reliable to save the faff.

I have JK hinges - will these work without a back box?

Perhaps someone will come up with a better explanation of the way the JK hinges move, but the Marcle ones drop dead level - ie seat base stays the same height whether bed or seat, it just moves forward.

I remortgaged the house and bought a Bluebird customs full width bed including the boards and foam. The quality is really good but I was dissapointed to find I had to raise the back by quite a bit (can't remember seeing that on their website!) but at least I can slide deckchairs and other flat things under it.

I ditched the rather crude earlier box section slider system in my Leisuredrive and simply hinged the two sections so that I have a seat in one position and about six inches overhang in the made up bed position. The overhang needs no addidionaal support unless you were to stand right on the edge. The bed therefore sits down in contact with the engine cover and you don't sit with your feet dangling off the floor or sleep with your nose too close to the ceiling stowed table.
I did consider the JK set up but couldn't understand why the need to set the bed so hight! Also I just never understood the need for all this mechanical malarky!
Cheers
Wolfie

The only reason for the mechanical interference is bed length basically.