Club 80-90 Forums

R0B wrote:have you checked your dizzy cap and rotor arm?

No I haven't checked them. Sorry for the dumb question but what/how do I check they are ok?

Thanks

looking under the dizzy cap you will see there are four contact points one for each lead.make sure these are cleaned up.(no white crud on them)also the edge on the rotor arm should be shiney.where it contacts these four points.if in doubt just replace both of these.they are not that expensive.maybe even treat the van to a new set of leads whilst your at it..

/\ /\ /\ what he said...

I had this issue a while back (1.9 DG) and it turned out to be the 'hall sender unit' - a gadget that lives inside the distributer. The mechanic showed me how he tested to see if it was kaput - by using a multimeter and the little black electical connector unit on side of dizzy housing (I image someone who knows stuff will be along shortly to explain....I thought Pixies lived inside the dizzy, which is where the magic happens!).
Anyhow, Brickwerks supplied a new unit quickety quick, and hey presto!

Do you have a Haynes/Bently manual..? You seem to be on right track, checking for problems systematically...

Good luck. FW

ok, first thing you should do is be methodic!

the spark starts at the coil , and travels down the kinglead to the dissy, which sends it to the plugs via the plug leads.

so, check the coil is producing a spark first.
Then check that spark is getting through the lead to the dissy, then check the plug leads ( not just one) then check the plugs.

Just be very carefull, it bites!

Thanks all, will try the things suggested tomorrow.

Do I test the coil spark the same way as I was testing for a spark?

yes

Thick gloves

Really thick gloves. had that with my 2ltr, replaced the dizzy cap, points etc, plus sorted out the battery was the right one, sorted, now kicks in fine style. Mind u the spark dance is rather amuzing or so the wife says, and shes seen me do it a few times.

Only just had a chance to try the suggestions.

I can't get a spark from the coil but am wondering if I am testing it right. I have removed the coil lead from the distributor cap and whilst the engine is being cranked over I am touching the metal end of the lead onto a suitable bolt head on the engine, no spark. Is this the right way to do it?

The coil is a Bosch (Brazil) about 6 years old, is there a time they typically last? Can you test to see if the coil is kaput or is the only way to substitute a new one and see if it works?

Thanks again.

Sounds like you are doing it right.

If you have a multimeter set it to ohms (resistance) and disconnect all leads from the coil making note of what goes where.

To test the primary winding: One probe to Terminal 1(-) and the other to Ter 15(+). Reading should be between 0.420- 0.760 ohms
To test secondary winding : One probe to Ter 1(-) and the other to Ter 4 (centre). Reading should be between 2400- 3500 ohms.

If no replace.

If you are not sure about the above then the easiest way is to replace it and see and if it's not the problem then you'de have a spare coil anyway

Tony

Time for an update.

I bought a new coil from GSF and still no spark at the end of the coil lead. I have also connected a spark plug lead (with plug in the end) directly to the coil and no spark when earthed against the block. I have checked and there is 12v getting to the coil so any ideas?

Thanks for all your help.

jswagger wrote:Time for an update.

I bought a new coil from GSF and still no spark at the end of the coil lead. I have also connected a spark plug lead (with plug in the end) directly to the coil and no spark when earthed against the block. I have checked and there is 12v getting to the coil so any ideas?

Thanks for all your help.

you are holding the lead a small millimetre away from the engine block, to watch the spark? id imagine if you actually pressed it onto the metal, you wouldnt see anything as it would pass right through.

i gave myself a good buzz, quite a shock. quite fun, in a way...

jswagger wrote: I have also connected a spark plug lead (with plug in the end) directly to the coil and no spark when earthed against the block.

Thats correct
I'm thinking the same as fairywinds, the hall sender in the distributor is broke?

Yes I am holding the lead with a slight (less than 1mm) gap between lead end and block.

I am not even getting a spark at the end of the coil lead so surely the Hall sensor is not in the picture yet?

Could it be possible that the battery is shagged? According to the charger it is fully charged (and engine sounds healthy when cranked). When I measured the voltage at the coil it was 12v with the ignition on but around 8v when cranking. Could the battery not be able to provide enough oomph? Might try jump starting it tomorrow just to see.

The hall sensor replaces the conventional points ignition unit in the distributor. If the hall effect unit is kaput, then so is the spark due to no signal being sent from the distributor to the ignition module and then onto the coil.