Club 80-90 Forums

Was wondering how easy it is to get some additional grease into cv joints, I've got one with a bit of occassional noise, and wanted to see if grease would help, but if it involves removing the joint I may as well change it.
Any views? Is adding grease just an emergency measure anyway?
Cheers
Dan

Hello,

I have a spare grease gun, which I use for refilling driveshaft gaiters,

I took the nipple attacher off, , yeah, and then fitted some fuel pipe as a flexy, then a bit of flattened brake pipe ,

The general idea is to carefully cut off the metal clamp at the end of the rubber gaiter, then slide the tube in.

I try to massage the grease well into the bearing.

Use a plastic electrician's tie to finish.

Oh yes, don't forget to use Molybdenum Sulphide grease, (M2S)

Voila


Cordialement,

sarran1955 wrote:Hello,

I have a spare grease gun, which I use for refilling driveshaft gaiters,

I took the nipple attacher off, , yeah, and then fitted some fuel pipe as a flexy, then a bit of flattened brake pipe ,

The general idea is to carefully cut off the metal clamp at the end of the rubber gaiter, then slide the tube in.

I try to massage the grease well into the bearing.

Use a plastic electrician's tie to finish.

Oh yes, don't forget to use Molybdenum Sulphide grease, (M2S)

Voila


Cordialement,

Sounds a bit pervy to me,....

If I change the cv joints am I getting it right that if joints are the same on outer and inner, it doesnt matter which way the driveshaft is replaced? Also, I read (in the wiki I think) that the outer lasts circa 70k ish miles and the inner alot longer, so is it worth turning the entire shaft around to even wear up on the side thats not knocking?
Anyone tried this?
Cheers
Dan

there's a school of thought that does reverse them when they're off, doesn't seem to hurt

Cheers people,
Your're helping great to put the knowledge in, now all I need is to rekindle the technique to do the practical part, and that bit in me is about as rusty as a T2