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Posted: 23 May 2006, 16:49
by Mocki
first place i'd look would be the pressure switch in the master cylinder, twin spade connection, join them together and see if the brake lights light, the switch costs about £3 from gsf and takes 2 mins to change.......
Posted: 23 May 2006, 21:37
by tonytech
Presumably the bulbs are OK.
Have a look at the earths too.
T
Posted: 24 May 2006, 12:51
by Cate
theres something funny going on
Welcome to the wonderful world of T25s, aren't they just soooo great!
Posted: 24 May 2006, 13:08
by purplechugster
The hole where the bulbs go in can be a right pain - with mine the bulb needs to be wiggled about until its in position
x rotation
y and pressed in
z. They dont hold a uniform current across the whole thing - so first of all try giving them a wiggle while someones hold the brake down (whilst carefully not electrocuting yourself)
Posted: 24 May 2006, 14:47
by tonytech
If you have a poor earth or corroded connector a voltmeter will show 12V. as soon as you try to dtaw a current (ie a brake light bulb will draw about 0.5 A) the voltage will fall to zero.
I find a 5W bulb soldered to test leads usefull.
T