Club 80-90 Forums

I seem to have a strange electrical issue with my headlights, When the ignition is on and I switch the side lights or dipped beam on the blue LED full beam light comes on but the lights are dipped if I click the stalk back the full beam comes on and the blue LED goes out also the dash lights do not come on at all and the fuel and temp gauge needles start to rise then if I switch the lights off the low coolant red LED flashes as if you have just turned the key and when I turn the ignition off (with the lights on) the dash lights come back on and the blue LED goes out and the side lights are on as normal.

I have checked all the fuses but I don't know how to test the relays.
I only have 4 relays in the fuse box these are:
Postion 3 Relay No 43
Postion 5 Relay No 24
Postion 8 Relay No 18
Postion 12 Relay No 21

There is also a link in relay positon 10 that connects pins 6 and 2 together

The only thing I have done is to remove the old stereo and fit a ciggy lighter I connected this to the earth crown behind the fuse board and connected the live feed to a blade on the back of the fuse board (top right side from the front where it is only live with the ignition on). I have removed these connections and checked all the plugs on the back of the fuse board have not been disturbed.

Any ideas ?

Thank in advance, Mark

get a spark /electrician/ i can do bits meself u end up chasn ya tail for 35 quid ish or roundaouts he will be their 5 minutes better than it taken you 5 hours for nothing good luck

I had the exact same problems a couple of months ago and because all the electrics were buggered up under the dash, I had to have the whole dash replaced with a 2nd hand one...and I now I only have the problems of the temp warning light coming on intermittently and the coil light not working!

Check the printed circuit board, see if there is any green gunge shorting across the tracks, most likely culprit

Thanks Big Tam I'll check the PCB later Im just getting dragged out to ASDA (oh joy). Hopfully I'll sort it before getting an auto spark out or replacing the whole dash . Im quite persistant (and a bit tight with my cash ) so all advice is most welcome

or you have disturbed the earths on the crown - worth taking it off and getting it and the bulkhead cleaned up thoroughly.

bad earth crown/split earth lead; path of least resistance is the high beam led, common issue

Cheers guys, I'll check all the earth connections and PCB in the morning as I have now opened a bottle off red

Right then Ive checked and cleaned the earth crowns and took the clockset out to check the PCB and its in a right state looks like someone has already tried a repair using the silver paint stuff and there are some screws missing that hold the PCB in place, the issue with the lights has gone but now the coolant low level light won't go out and the indicators and hazzards don't work they did prior to me removing the dash, I will loop the coolant sensors wires in the block just to double check, so far I have checked and cleaned the relays but it all points to the sorry looking PCB so Im thinking of the hard wire route if I cant find a replacment clockset, which i'd prefer tbh as this one is cracked and has screws missing.

Thanks for the tips folks, hopefully I'll resolve this soon

All sorted now it was the PCB
Thanks for all the advice on this one folks much appreciated and HUGE thanks to Aidan who not only had a spare PCB but also fitted it and mended the rear of the clockset where it was damaged when I went to collect the PCB, what a guy.


Mark

Just jumping on the back of your issue, but I have noticed that when I put my full beam on it flicks on and off - mainly off. However if I am at standstill testing it, it works fine and stays on.

With your clearly great headlamp knowledge! do you have any ideas?