Club 80-90 Forums

Replaced front discs and pads a few weeks ago and the the f/n/s has developed a squeak when turning sharp right at low speed. Also, I think I can hear a slight whoom whoom at low speed too.

Any ideas or should I just take it into kwik-sh*t and get them to have a quick look?

Take it back. Where are the anti-squeal shims and if they're not there did they apply brake grease to back of pads. Also how worn are the discs?

Ah - mm.

Well, did it myself - with help from me dad - in the quest to learn on the job.

Both discs and pads were new on. Didn't put brake grease on when we did it - should that sort it? Does it have to be applied to the part of the pads that touch the discs?

nooooo.dont do that it goes on the metal piece that the pad is attached to.that the piston comes into contact with..

jamesandhayley wrote:Ah - mm.

. Didn't put brake grease on when we did it - should that sort it? Does it have to be applied to the part of the pads that touch the discs?

NO NO NO, put it there and you'll be the ones squeaking as you'll have next to no brakes!!!
It goes on the back/edge of the pads where they touch the caliper
If in doubt get help or a manual.
Good luck.

Well, if I'd put it on the pads, it's a mistake I'd only make once...

Thanks gents

Tis a sad fact that even when fitted correctly, many non genuine aftermarket brake pads and shoes develope squeeks/squeals/judders and grabbing syndrome....the price paid for money saved.
In recent years I have been frustrated by the percentage of brake faults that develope after new components are fitted. Even some of better know brands develope squeaks and squeals (thankfully these tend to be their only faults) unknown brands can often be so poor that you end up changing them again...lesson learned and all that.

You will probably cure this noise by removing and cleaning the pads on some emery...just how long before it happens again is anyones guess.

Martin

R0B wrote:nooooo.dont do that it goes on the metal piece that the pad is attached to.that the piston comes into contact with..

As well as the metal backing to piston area, brake grease should ALSO be applied to:
On early brakes..the securing pins and sides of the pads to prevent them seizing into the caliper.

Later brakes, on the sides of the pads and floating caliper pins (make sure you re-seat the sealing gaitors)

Typically,where the pads sit; should be scraped with a flat blade screw driver so the pads sit loosely and are able to move without restriction, a smear of grease at these points helps but at no point should any get on the pad or disc braking surface.

I'n not wishing to criticise but your lack of knowledge (asking the question about applying grease to the pad surface) doesn't instill much confidense as to wether other aspects of this repair have been done correctly ie:
Transfering bearing races, cleaning and re-packing bearings, properly adjusting bearing clearances, using thread lock on calliper bolts and generally tightening components to the correct torque settings including the wheels.


Martin

jamesandhayley wrote:Replaced front discs and pads a few weeks ago and the the f/n/s has developed a squeak when turning sharp right at low speed.

Well done on attempting to do it yourself. I'd definately take it all apart and double check everything. Check all the points made above, anti rattle springs, sliders, copper grease or appropriate grease if ABS,

jamesandhayley wrote: Also, I think I can hear a slight whoom whoom at low speed too.

..did you check the wear on your discs? Are they too worn and warped? Discs are cheap enough to replace. You can check the thickness using a brake caliper tool, like a vernier tool but with a pincer type end. Allowed tolerances should be printed on the disc.

jamesandhayley wrote:Any ideas or should I just take it into kwik-sh*t and get them to have a quick look?

Noooo, please! I've just repaired a job that Kwik Fit allegedly did!


All the above is great advice..

Paul...I get the impression he has changed his disc's as well as his pads?

As well as the metal backing to piston area, brake grease should ALSO be applied to:
On early brakes..the securing pins and sides of the pads to prevent them seizing into the caliper.

Later brakes, on the sides of the pads and floating caliper pins (make sure you re-seat the sealing gaitors)

Typically,where the pads sit; should be scraped with a flat blade screw driver so the pads sit loosely and are able to move without restriction, a smear of grease at these points helps but at no point should any get on the pad or disc braking surface.

I'n not wishing to criticise but your lack of knowledge (asking the question about applying grease to the pad surface) doesn't instill much confidense as to wether other aspects of this repair have been done correctly ie:
Transfering bearing races, cleaning and re-packing bearings, properly adjusting bearing clearances, using thread lock on calliper bolts and generally tightening components to the correct torque settings including the wheels.


Martin

Red Westie wrote:Paul...I get the impression he has changed his disc's as well as his pads?

Yes you may just be right, but was just checking.

No, Martin, you're perfectly okay to question it, I don't take it personally - i'm trying to learn as much as possible so I don't have to spend a fortune every time something needs doing.

But to reassure you, everything you mentioned above was done - infact the bearings were replaced at the same time. Only thing not done was put grease on it. My dad has experience in general mechanics (although not T25) and we used a Haynes manual. Just asked about the grease as it didn't sound right about putting it on the pads, but I wanted to check.

As I said, it was done about a month ago - done a 1000 miles since then, and it's just started squeaking.

I wouldn't ever want to put anyone off doing it themselves but would always encourage people to come and ask, this way you will get a step by step explaination and walk through.
I'm kind of sensitive about brakes/steering/suspension to some extent, anything that potentially, if repaired wrongly, could be dangerous. Afterall it's not just the driver that's being put at risk but joe public as well.

Martin