Club 80-90 Forums

Hi peeps hope ur all happy campers. Could u please leave me some recommended rust cure products, as looking on fleebay it's a bit of a mine field! Marine rust cure better than say hammerite?
Cheers in advance. Oh yeah southsea dub weekender this weekend. See u Sunday!

Vactan is the daddy!

I mostly use Kurust - its a hammerite product I think, Halfords sell it. Does a pretty decent job.

the best by far is defo vatcan you will find it on E-BAY

have to agree..........vactan is the one

verat25(cardiff)

Thanks for the quick replys vactan ordered. Thanks all

Never order a BIG bottle though unless you think you can use that much in a year (its shelf life). It goes a very long way indeed though. If you want to put it through its paces, try painting say a shed hasp/padlock with Vactan and see how well it holds out. A year later it will still be rust-free. Occasionally we'll get someone who moans that it hasn't stopped seam rust but like any rust treatment, unless you get every bit in an area (both sides) - it will be back.

The good thing about vactan is that its watery so you can blow it into crevices with an air line - a good tip that one. Vactan also forms an important part of the whole 'roller your van' project as it works well in conjunction with Rustoleum. Vactan has a long track history with the military and narrowboats. It uses tannin to stop the rust spread, bound in an acrylic base. You can also use a rust-remover (if you wanted to), prior to applying it.

For most of us, its also a good insurance on any stone chips or where you want to do prep but paint much later as vactan forms a very effective barrier in the meantime. I did (briefly) establish a price reduction with paco-systems who make vactan but they didn't seem interested in a club discount. However, its cheap enough for what it is.

It won't work on areas that get very hot - ie exhaust pipes. I've been running tests for that. Does seem to work ok on heat exchangers though:)

May I add one or two points to CK's advice and that is to use small containers, like cleaned out yoghurt tubs/Shipam's paste jars and have several small brushes to hand. It is extremely important not to dip the brushes you are using into say a 500ml or 1 litre reservoir because you will contaminate/corrupt it because of chemical reaction of the stuff to the minutest of rust particles instantly.

I know I haven't put this over very well, but hopefully CK and others will know what I'm trying to say and will be along soon and explain things clearer that me.

Eric.

The only rust cure is to cut it out and replace

Vactan will only slow it down.

Thanks all for the great advice....of which I will....fingers crossed put to good use.

eric wrote:May I add one or two points to CK's advice and that is to use small containers, like cleaned out yoghurt tubs/Shipam's paste jars and have several small brushes to hand. It is extremely important not to dip the brushes you are using into say a 500ml or 1 litre reservoir because you will contaminate/corrupt it because of chemical reaction of the stuff to the minutest of rust particles instantly.

I know I haven't put this over very well, but hopefully CK and others will know what I'm trying to say and will be along soon and explain things clearer that me.

Eric.

if you look in the cheapie shops they often have have packs of disposable small drinking cups about 200ml size , theyre under a quid for lots , very handy for that kinda thing

I'd partly agree with Eatcustard that the best rust treatment is new metal but small areas I treated with Vactan four years ago never reappeared. Its when you're dealing with large areas that have possibly holed through where rust treatments are not a good idea and at other times it seems to be a case of luck. Mind you. I'm a realist and accept that no matter what I do, the scrap yard will claim it - eventually.

CovKid wrote:I'd partly agree with Eatcustard that the best rust treatment is new metal but small areas I treated with Vactan four years ago never reappeared. Its when you're dealing with large areas that have possibly holed through where rust treatments are not a good idea and at other times it seems to be a case of luck. Mind you. I'm a realist and accept that no matter what I do, the scrap yard will claim it - eventually.

I work on the triggers broom principal,

still the same broom after 25 years, despite seven new shanks and six new heads

Thats the best description for why most of us drive v-dubs I think I've ever heard. Nicely put

can someone plz confirm what colour rust contaminated vactan looks like? mine is starting to look sort of like cocoa, browning milkshake, is this right or not? lol. when applying on fresh metal it goes black and reacts and also skins over with the plastic in it tho.