Club 80-90 Forums

Hi all

Just noticed a bit of clutch slip -- engine seems to race ahead of acceleration, which catches up shortly after.
Clutch is relatively high.
I assume it is on the way out...but how long do you think I have?

My 1983 van had a 1.6D with a 5 speed box, although it now has a 1.9D (from a MIII Golf) but retains the same gearbox.
Is there a specific clutch I will need? (anyone got an Ebay link?)
Is it an easy enough job for a competent but non T25 familiar mechanic?

Help much appreciated

Mine was like that for five months... Let it build up slowly and it will last a while but replacement imminent for sure.

If it's slipping it needs replacing now, carry on and you might need a flywheel as well.

He will if his engine is revving faster than he's going My flywheel was ok (I just took it steady) but good point.

hi i did my 87 19dg hi top last year my self never done one before it took me 4hrs gearbox out and back in and i enjoyed doing it its not that hard to do if you have the right tools to do the job have a go get your self a clutch alignment tool it saves a lot of messing around (cost about £5)if you had lived closer i would of given you a hand

Worst bit in my view is disconnecting and reconnecting pipe to slave cylinder. Rest is just grunt. If you're fit you can do it ok. Needs a meaty trolley jack though

Ahhhh! Thanks for wisdom
I will prob go for replacement now rather than later in that case.
Will I need the 215mm or 218mm clutch?

drive it so as not to make the clutch slip , the more it slips the less it wil last , and change it as soon as possible though , done mine on monday its the easiest box you could wish to take out just over 2hrs all done , i have never worked on T25 before , but i am a pro and have all the right tools , . so you should do it easily in 4hrs ish .
Paul

Some say their AAZs push a standard JX clutch (which I imagine you have) enough to make one slip after a short time from new.
I haven't found that, it's a Syncro Doka with a good AAZ and heavily laden sometimes (overloaded even)

Diameter is 215mm, but its a complete JX clutch kit you want.

Don't plan to break the Olympic record, if it takes twice 4 hours, what's important is that you look at a few other things at the same time...

Operating release fork.. free-running in its bearings, any flats or burrs on the working edges against the release bearing should be ground off with a small hand stone.

Spigot bearing.. quite important these are in good nick on T25s. Check for free-running, lubed and not dry, and no pits or flats on the needles.
(Check condition of input shaft spigot surface, clean, shouldn't be pitted or damaged)

Input shaft splines... clean and very lightly lubricate with moly grease, copperslip or that which comes in the small aluminium packet in the kit (if any).

Clean and degrease flywheel face, if blued or glazed, spend some with some emery paper matting it.
Use gloves and change them when getting any grease on them if working near flywheel or clucth friction surfaces.
Degrease the new clutch cover plate face (whether it seems to need it or not)

Roughly check the play/slop in the input shaft brg (by whirling it, vertically/laterally), just to check there isn't a developing problem there... Aidan will tell you roughly what to expect on that one. It will move about a bit of course.

Ideally use a clutch alignment tool, or an old input shaft and hold it up a bit to get dead central.

Thus, you then shouldn't damage the spigot needle brg, whlst trying to get the box to mate nice and square and as carefully as you can.

Wiki has all this sort of stuff in it too I think...

There's so much else you can and should check, especially the starter motor lead integrity and insulation (so disconenct battery early on)
Gbox mounts, g/c rods and bushes etc..

Good oppy to relube inner CVJs from flange side before re-mounting them, condition of CVJ bolts (pick out heads before starting) and ensure you have the correct tool, tighten to at least 30 ft-lbf, drive-flanges - check for oil weeps, rock/wear, etc etc
Tie-up shafts out of way with welding wire or similar...

Good luck, pretty sure a std clutch will hold unless yours is extra powerful or extra heavy

More:
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... the_clutch
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... ing_clutch
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... ted_Clutch

Oh Harry that sounds just like the care one would and does get from quickfit or simmilar establishment. if only
mike