Club 80-90 Forums

Go on then indulge me ...

What does

This requires substantial bodywork adjustment, bracketry fabrication and needs specialist parts. Can be mounted using an adaptor plate, or a genuine South African bellhousing (expensive, but allows use of more stock parts. This engine will foul your engine cover.

entail exactly ?

Just dreaming for when the Elite 2.1 goes belly up.

Many thanks folks
Ian

The engine lid requires raising about 3" for clearance.

As regards the parts required have you seen there's a complete 2.2 set-up inc LPG system on here for about £600?

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=72952" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

g60steve wrote:The engine lid requires raising about 3" for clearance.

As regards the parts required have you seen there's a complete 2.2 set-up inc LPG system on here for about £600?

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=72952" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Yes, precisely In the wiki it was the 'substantial bodywork adjustments' that had me worried ..... I'm not keen on the hammering chassis member kind of conversions and was wondering what else was involved.

Thanks for the reply

Ian

As far as I can recall the only bodywork mod required is the raising of the engine lid.Also as a result of this the bed hinges also need modifying in order for the bed to lay flat on the raised engine cover.
From the factory SA vans also have a support bar from the top of the gearbox to the engine as the 5 cylinder has quite a bit more torque than a WBX and tends to "flex" on the gearbox.

Useful link.
http://volksweb.relitech.com/helmut/index.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

EXTREMELY helpful, many thanks for that.

Ian

gearbox also fitted with oiling plates and the casting of the case modified for strut brace and strengthened for that and gear carrier improved casting more support for mainshaft bearing

If you need some SA pics, give me a ping for the details - I'll be at VF too.
Aidan has just reminded me to post him some gearbox shrapnel from the 2.6 for identification

Certainly when we did this on my Syncro, you had to cut and weld the rear bulkhead to allow for the extra length of engine - you also need to make a rear support bracket to support the back of the engine - so it is properly held in. All is best done with proper SA parts bellhousing and engine mounts etc. Far easier to Subie IMHO...

syncroand101 wrote: Far easier to Subie IMHO...

and you don't end up losing a load of departure angle from that very vulnerable crank pulley, hanging out below the rear valance
VWSA only built two 2.5 litre 5-pot prototype syncros and decided it wasn't a good idea. I wonder why?
5 pots are great on the road, bot for a syncro stick with a flat 4 or get a lower-powered V6 Audi, if you want the trans to last any length of time... IMHO
The scoobs are more fuel efficient than the old 10-valve R5 motors, either way.