Club 80-90 Forums

is there enough room, (maplin type cig socket wheel bolt drill with 0.5 drive 22mm impact socket?

may be tight but if you put the wheels hard lock to the oppersite side you may be able to. when i got my t25 and first tried to undo them i used a large braker bar and one bolt i stud on it to undo it and the other i put a jack under the braker bar and jacked it up till the bolt became loose.
not sure if thats any help.

Danny

Or a straight bar (rather than ratchet) and t**t it with a BIG hammer or if its THAT tight, slide a jack handle on to the bar to get more leverage. Thats how I did mine.

24" breaker bar needed to remove mine

thanks beloved guys. man over machine, good ideas there. trust me to have lost my breaker bar, i have an extendible wheel bolt bar, might try that. also, erm, i am so going to copper grease every bolt that comes off this thing. secondly, i am so going to get her back on the road. grrr lol.

Longer bar should do it buddy but make sure vehicle is firmly supported underneath before throwing your weight at it. If you have any doubt about security of jack/stands, sling a couple of wheels underneath as a precautionary measure.

Copper greease on nuts and bolts that are rarely undone is a good insurance policy - besides theres nothing worse than that horrendous squeak you get from things like dry wheel bolts. I also use it on brake nipples but use very sparingly there as you don't need it in brake lines and seals

bought a great big breaker bar and these sockets that work on the flats and not on rounding off the edges of your bolt, thoroughly recommended. hydraulic jacked up one bolt and pushed my weight down on the other, they both came off without any heat or fluid. then, with an 11mm brake pipe spanner and a 14mm, undid the pipe from the lower part of the brake hose, result! turned the seized piston in with a retraction tool, (draper one kept on coming apart, the little nut kept on spinning off, grrr), eventually it popped and a big squirt of oil and turned it in flush eventually.

tomorrow i am going to blow some air through this caliper and will try to get the pistons out, cleaned and seals renewed.

you on about the carrier bolts ???? If so take them back out clean all the copper slip off them and put them back in with thread lock on um!!!! there that tight for a reason! the last thing you want is them undoing! and even gert tight bolts will undo !

just a little bit of copper there in the threads won't hurt, besides it dries into the threads and i will make sure they're really tight. will keep an eye on them. i know i am going to have to take these off soon again to do the discs. however looking at the torque it's pretty low for these bolts, i will probably just put them back in without any copper grease on them.

xpress wrote:just a little bit of copper there in the threads won't hurt, besides it dries into the threads and i will make sure they're really tight.

As I have often said Im only a mechanic what would I know!!!!!!

vw supply two new nuts with their brake pads.these have thread lock already on the tips of them.so if i was you.i would be doing what james suggests.

ok thread lock it is, thx, that's if i ever get these pistons out, currently soaking in brake fluid