Club 80-90 Forums

After finding oil in the coolant i flushed out the whole system, had oil cooler replaced, put in a new thermostat (though old one was actually working ok when i tested it) and got an oem tank cap. I also bought 4 bottles of anti-freeze from jk (about £30). You can imagine my disappointment when i started the process of refilling and bleeding only to discover the black stuff in my lovely new anti-freeze!! I can only conclude it's the head. Ordered stuff yesterday and the guy at eurocarparts said he'd been working on t25s a long time and as a matter of course puts in a gasket from an AAZ 1.9 engine into 1.6 TDs like mine (JX engine) saying they are steel and so much more durable. Does he have a point cos i ordered one based on his advice or should i have got the one for my van? Also i'm really confused by all this 1,2 or 3 notches. Which gasket is right for a 1986 1.6td engine? Cheers!

the notches are the thickness indicator and relate to the deck height of the cylinders, should be measured according to the manual procedure and the gasket chosen accordingly but I think most peeps just count the notches and put the same in again, but since it affects the compression ratio it's worth doing right

I'm no expert but isn't there an oil cooler on this model that sometimes corrodes internally allowing oil to leak into the water? between the oil filter and housing? I know some of the wasserboxers have one and think some diesels have them also. Obviously if this is the case then it won't make any difference changing the head gasket. Just have a looksie before you go diving in (I could well be wrong but certainly worth investigating first)

Martin

My jx had small black bits in the cooling system, i decide to change the head gasket on it as it also had a small oil leak from around the head gasket near the pump. Good job as the head was knackered!!!!!!!!, cracks between the valves on every cylinder were present. But on cylinders 2 and 3 there were cracks going from the inlet vavles to the swirl chambers, one of them had also started to turn a bit so think i got it just in time. The head gasket was on its last legs i could just about see where it was starting to fail. I did also replace the oil cooler on the oil filter housing as well and also the radiator as that had seen better days.Parts available from guru baxter at brickwerks up in Uddersfield. Now my engine ran fine & started great, didnt overheat and has never missed a beat but still needed new head and gasket. I used head gasket and new head from brickwerks. For parts your first stop should be brickwerks, reason being they work and do exacly what they should do. Parts from other companies can be hit and miss quality and fitment wise, thats talking from experience.

Thanks guys. Just to say i've already changed the oil cooler so that's new. Whether the new one is knackered (as they sometimes are according to some) it's obviously difficult to say-i can only exclude one thing at a time. That's why the head gasket seems to be the next logical step. Is it true then that i can't order a new gasket until i take the other one out? Surely it's possible to order one by giving the usual van model details etc. Anyhow i know brickwerks and have already ordered other stuff from them. It's looking increasingly likely that i'm going to get a mechanic to change it...though i've got the jk manual it looks like a tricky job especially doing the timing belt and water pump too. Has anyone done it and is it really that difficult?

I ended up getting an expert on these to do mine as well. Reason was i didnt have a lot of time, would have needed to purchase the diesel locking tools etc. There are 3 head gaskets for these engines (1 notch, 2 notch,3 notch)i think just kampers and GSF only sell one of the head gaskets whereas brickwerks sells all 3 versions.
When head is removed you need to see how many notches the head gasket has on it. Then measure piston protusion and then you can work out the correct head gasket to fit. Most people just refit the same type gasket that comes off i.e 1 notch or a 2 notch or a 3 notch. So no you cannot just order a gasket before head is removed.
As ive already said thou you cyl head may be knackered it is a common fault with these engines so DOES need checking when removed. .

I also don't have a lot of time otherwise i'd really like to give it a go just to be able to have that knowledge. Do you know if just getting the head off to have a look at the old gasket is that tricky or not? What's the procedure?

I have done quite a few head gaskets etc in my time and usually use the "time engine to TDC then paint mark the pullys" before undoing everything. Not exactly a scientific method but effective whether this can be done accurately with a JX engine i dont know. It might be worth doing a quick search on the subject to see if any one else has answered a similar question as its bound to have been covered before given the popularity of the jx engine!!!

I thought that usually the notches are on a piece of the gasket that protrudes.(was on mine)

ah oldie...i could see the small tab on mine with the notches on without removin the head...and theres dozens of crackin threads on here about changin the gaskets....i did mine last year on our 1y diesel n i made all the timing/locking tools mesen,bits of bar,correct size bolts,a few shims etc......couldnt afford buy um n couldnt afford someone to do it.....