Club 80-90 Forums

I've got a loud banging noise coming from under the drivers seat so I'm thinking it must be the wheel bearing (its a t25 syncro). Its fine in a straight line or turning left (anti clockwise) but start to turn right and it bangs/thuds and gets worse the more you turn.

Question is can it be only the wheel bearing like this one at brickwerks -

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php?p ... t&Itemid=6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

or could it be something else as I'm thinking of having a go myself as reading the haynes and a few forum posts it looks like all you have to tackle is 6 allen bolts on either side of the prop shaft then bolt this new unit on? or have I missed something as I'm guessing abit as I haven't got a manual that covers this area.

Also I noticed a high pitched whistling sound now and then from that area prior to this, you could hear it change pitch when passing parked cars then empty spaces and it would stop when ever the brake was touched but then come back. I thought this must have been the brake pad just skimming the disk a bit.

Anyway thanks for any advice,

Cheers.

your looking at the drive shafts ,6 bolts at rear,sound from front can be possibly drop down link or maybe torsion bar ofcourse im guessing but it might make you look harder. good luck

As it's a syncro (I'm no expert on these though...!) I would have thought it's the front CV joint.
The squealing you hear is possibly brake pads just touching which is why it goes when applying pressure to the brakes.
Does the bearing get hot and does the wheel have any free play in it?

My bad it was the cv joint I was talking about, the thing with the six balls. Brickwerks pic looked similar but I'm thinking it has to be one of those 6 bearings thats gone. Anyway I'm going to see if I can loosen the allen bolts first and if I can then buy some axel stands and remove it. Then the final hurdle is to get the circlip of and remove it and fit the new one and if I can't I can take the shaft and new cv to a mechanic, can't take a mechanic 5 mins to swap over a cv joint from the shaft if its removed.

I just checked the play and its about 1mm 12-6, 9-3 and its only done 1200 miles since the mot and the hot bearings I've only driven it a few miles since it happened so can't tell.

All this while I'm touring the south coast. Question I'm thinking since I've got a vice to hold the shaft to remove the cv is what to put the vice on, me is thinking of a council metal railing or something

Anyways thanks for the replys and I'll let you know what happened.

Yup it was the cv joint but on the outer passenger side so its just as well I got a mechanic to do it. Drive shaft was worn at the end too so its now got 2 new cvs and a replaced secondhand drive shaft and yeah part of the suspension needed to be removed. I know because the wrong cv was delivered and I had to pay to have it put back together again to sleep in

Anyways.

I made a list of how it was done as if I need to do it again myself in a years time I'll have forgotten.

1.Put van on axel stands and take off wheel.
2.Undo and remove the 2 small bolts at the top of the steering knuckle, push up the suspension a little to make some space.
3. Undo and remove the 2 large nuts at either end of the steering knuckle and it will then pull downwards and outwards.
4.Undo and remove the brake caliper and pads and tie it up out of the way.
5. Undo and remove the 6 allen bolts on the inner cv. You can rotate the shaft for better access as you work your way around and using three extensions joined together makes it easier.
6.Remove the 30mm nut from the outside end of the shaft and the drive shaft and 2 cv's should then drop away.
7.Remove the cv joints from the shaft by taking out the circlip and then knocking them off.

Some pics of what it looks like dismantled.

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/4991/ds011.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/7455/ds012.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/9718/ds015.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

btw this was all done with the drive shaft having come out the socket so if its still in the socket hole thing it'll be slightly different ie the steering knuckle won't fall away I'm guessing.