Club 80-90 Forums

Hi all,

I've been having an eventful week VW-wise this week. A new alternator (from Bosch so now poor) and some fun trying to drain the brake fluid. Here is the story...

I have owned my pride and joy for 18 months and was starting to wonder about the brake fluid as it should be changed every two years. The old owner said it had been done "recently" and when we looked it over it looked new (not that I knew what I was looking for ). So, it has been on my to-do list from the beginning.

While in the garage I asked the folks to test it...it boiled at 168 degrees C. Apparently, it should be somewhere in the 200 to 300 range (I have a JX diesel, not sure if that makes any difference). Time to change I said!! The bloody drain plugs on the rear drums were rusted solid and he could only undo one of the fronts (with heat treatment). Suggested I had a go with so de-rusting spray (have the stuff cannot remember the name...), or replace the brake calliper and the two rear wheel cylinders so they could do it.

Does changing the calliper etc. sound like the best idea - it may be the only idea if I cannot free them... As it's brakes I am a bit concerned about visiting the land of nasty creek without a paddle if I shear the bleed bits off!

If I have to go down this route I am thinking of doing other things while it is half apart....get value for the mechanics labour!

I think I can manage the brake fluid change myself just frightened of doing do-do's with the bleed points.

Tom.

Try mole grips slightly tighten them but not enough to shear. After this try undoing them do not get new calipers though for the sake of a bleed nipple it may be worth getting new rear cyclinders as they are quits cheap plus it gives you a chance to check the rear brakes out and rectify anything that may be a problem or worn.

Other than that keep soaking them with plus gas or 3in1 oil it's better than wd40

hth phil

Thanks Phil - confirming my thoughts!

Don't like the sound of replacing a calliper just for the brake fluid, but, as you say, the rear cylinder may be worth a change as I wouldn't mind an excuse to check out the drum brakes and see all is okay (or maybe not ). And they are cheep enough... I also want to change the rear springs and set up the camber (my wheels lean in quite noticeably....) so worth doing all at the same time.

I will start soaking with 3-1 for a few days...

Don't like the feeling of boiling the fluid on the first big Norwegian steep hill I find and then going down the next like a mini out the back of a coach in the 'Italian Job'

So, fingers crossed for my first brake fluid change. Btw I was impressed the man in garage knew where to look for it - a good way of checking they have worked on one before

i would change the rear cylinders they are cheap enuff and if they have heated them they could have damaged the seals anyway! just keep spraying the bleed nipples with wd 40 or plus gas for a day or 2

Agree with Phil, and routinely now I go for molegrips on bleed nipples before considering 7mm ring spanner. If they snap, thats life but you stand a better chance shifting them with molies. On rears, cylinders are pretty cheap so I just buy new ones every time before I start work. One of my front calipers has a snapped nipple but I just undo the brake hose and bleed from there.

Thanks guys,

I'll start spraying.... and maybe some nice long nose mulgrips to make things a bit easier .... wish I had them when I took the dash off More of a cow to get the triangular dome bolt things of with normal ones....

Tom.

In my (humble) opinion it is very well worth using PlusGas not WD40

WD40 has it's uses but I find it does not make a good releasing or penetrating fluid.

ive just done both rear wheel bearings on my panel van and managed to sheer the nipples off on both the rear brake cylinders g,s,f do german 11quid and brazillian 6.99 rear cylinders + v,a,t went the german route ,and replaced both rear drums and shoes both shot to bits got drums and shoes from veedubmachines in cornwall 70 quid both sides incl shoes deliverd again german the bleed cycle is rear right-rear-left front right-front left hope this helps{the law of sodd]:the most expesive part-will be dropped;.....

You can see why I always have new rear wheel cyclinders ready when I tackle the rears. You can lube part of the nipple threads VERY sparingly with copper grease prior to fitment (which I always do) but chances are you'll still end up replacing rear cylinders next time around. What you don't want is copper grease inside brake lines, so as I say, use sparingly and not too far down the thread.

Thanks guys - it sounds like a plan! I will add the cylinders to the other things I want and go visit Brickwerks web shop!

I can get the callipers locally if I have to so i will have a go at loosening the front points myself first....

Will update when I get the job going - probably a week or so now.

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