Club 80-90 Forums

i've pulled the engine apart now and luckily the head is ok, the problem is one of the studs has snapped and i cant get it out, Does anybody have any ideas, i might try and get another engine to see if i can still make it to germany cross fingers,

Take a photo and post it up so we can have a look

Can you slip a nut over the broken stud and weld them together, the heat will also loosen the stud.Then just spanner the stud out. Takes about a minute

that's what i've been trying but the stud thats left is still twisting , i dont want it to snap further down. Spoken to someone in a machine shop says it cant be drilled out either because of the depth of the stud. Looks like another engine is needed for now

Well in that case nothing to loose? Could be twisting as the force/torque is off it even if you can get in it with a flat mole grips might be able to lossen it out works on cv bolts but have less torque. would try the nut approx first if you can get it on fingers x'd

Wouldnt heating it up cherry red help get it out?

jed

My syncro drove for 9 month and 8-10 000km with one stud missing. As long as you keep out of heavy off-roading you should me fine without the stud for now.

In the past I have built up the weld on short stud to make it longer, then put the nut on, and weld together.

keep trying.

jed the spread wrote:Wouldnt heating it up cherry red help get it out?

jed

Steel stud into ally block (crank case)
Idea of heating something is to make it expand, which in this case would make it tighter.
If you heat the block, it will melt or distort.
Can't really drill them and they are very hard, and as noted they are 6" down a hole.

Just another reason why WBX's suck big fat hairy c*ck.

If there is only a nub left then it's spark errosion time which is costly as if the company that you get to do it hasn't done one before he will have to make a sacrificial electrode to do it, which costs money.

I've not dared asked my tame machine shop how much he would charge for such a job but I do have a pile of scrap, sorry, a spare WBX crank case at work so I will ask just out of interest.

Simon Baxter wrote: Just another reason why WBX's suck big fat hairy c*ck.

Now thats not an election winning statement, but imagining you typing it out made me laugh.

might be talking rubbish with engines, but on removing steel studding from ally heat exchangers that are rusted in i've always used freeze spray on the stud, which will shrink/shock it free. Of course there is always one bu**er of a joint which won't budge what ever you do!

Had mine machined out but the machine shop hated doing it, said they would never do it again and it was expensive.

Not too many spare cases or engines where I live (Western Australia) that's why i went that way although it probably would have been cheaper to buy a case from Europe.

My advise, buy a another case.

Am i right in assuming that your engine is an MV MR Dragon?

jed

No it's a dj as the nut come off the snapped stud i lost all my water luckily i stopped straight away and did no engine damage by the looks of things, once this is done and it's mot'd i was thinking maybe going to put the panel van up for sale as i fancy a doka diesel of course !

I only ask because when i pulled apart the engine from my last van (2.1dj) the whole inside was very orange through rust, infact in the past the core plug had rusted through it was that bad. I did manage to get the heads off ok though (leaking water jacket) because the head bolts were stainless steal and after a quick wipe were in perfect condition. Are yours rusty?

jed