Club 80-90 Forums

Hi everyone,

Need some help from you clever people out there with our 2.0 petrol CU Aircooled engine.

Just completed top end rebuild and put engine back in last weekend but can't get it started

I've checked the fuel feed to the carbs and it is dry as a bone so took pipes off fuel pump (mechanical) and tried turning over engine to see if sucking and blowing - no obvious signs of either when putting fingers over the inlet / outlets.

So, no fuel getting through. I changed fuel filter and sucked through by mouth at fuel pump end (not nice or recommended) so doesn't appear to be a blockage in the fuel pipe.

Problem therefore presumably at fuel pump. I stripped this down during the rebuild and it was like brand new - all diaphrahms fine, etc and push rod looked okay. I checked that it sucked and pumped by manually operating the lever and it was fine.

Been to Bus Types at weekend and was talking to someone there who said the timing could be 180 degrees out so the pushrod is trying to suck from carb not blow and therefore as only designed to work one way, would explain why no suck or blow? Also, when I was turning the starter, I noticed a large fuel leak coming from the oil cooler - from the new seals by the looks of it Again, this guy thought this could be due to the timing trying to pump oil where it shouldn't thus causing back pressure and explaining the oil leak?

Has anyone got any thoughts on this as I will lose the will to live if I have to take the engine out again!

I'm sure there will be some clever person out there who knows the answer...

That guy you talked to is a t**t. Or he'd been drinking too much!
Firstly, the pushrod that operates the fuel pump just moves up and down, nothing else, just up and down and has nothing to do with ignition timing, distributor position, if the engines in upside-down or back to front... It still just moves up and down and does nothing else. Even if the engine turned over and ran backwards it would still pump fuel to the carbs!
Oil pump just spins round and round... Bet you can see where this one is going...!
For oil leak, check the seals.
For petrol, tip a little fuel down the carbs to cick the engine into life and it may just be enough to persuade the pump to follow. If not, check length of fuel pump pushrod to ensure it it the correct length. Failing that, make sure you put it back together properly with all parts in there! Failing that... A new pump (and serves you right for taking it apart when it worked perfectly!).

Ok - I get the message!!! Please don't mock the afflicted!

Boo - thaty doesn't sound good then

So, for the fuel pump, does anyone know what length the pushrod should be? I measured it when it was out and made mine 13.5 cm exactly. Any presumably, there is no way you could put the pushrod in back to front as it looks the same at both ends (apart from a small burr at one end)? Woud you not feel suck abnd blow when turning over on battery or do the carbvs needs priming as you say to et this started sufficiently?

For the oil cooler, is there any way of checking the seals without getting the engine out again? It looks very tight and not sure can get in there....

As he said, just put an oil can capful (ie a small splash) straight down carb throat then try and crank her. She may well splutter, run for a few seconds and die. Repeat exercise until she runs ok. You can't turn an engine over by hand or even on the starter fast enough to fill the pump and float bowl but a few shots of fuel will give it the speed and suck needed to get the fuel through. Don't waste time on length of fuel pump pushrod at this stage.

Cool - cheers CovKid. Invaluable advice as always! Greatly appreciated

Any ideas on the oil seal leak at the oil cooler? Could this just need to bed in (I think I am clutcing at straws here I know!) and seal itself once the engine is running and warm? If not, is it an engine out job again to get at the cooler? They are brand new seals so can't understand it and I torqued up to spec per the Haynes...

Unfortunately If its leaking, its leaking. I don't see that improving on its own. You sure the cooler doesn't have a leak itself?

orangebooboobearcrew wrote:Cool - cheers CovKid. Invaluable advice as always! Greatly appreciated

is it an engine out job again to get at the cooler? They are brand new seals so can't understand it and I torqued up to spec per the Haynes...

Apparently not

Please see this post, I have the same problemshttps://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 1#p7450980

All the best

Bloody hell! That's great news if I haven't gotta get the lump out again - it was a right pig to get it back in so if it's 5 hours graft with it still in, that's fine by me!!!

I'll check the pressure switch first and then if not this see if can get a spanner on to tighten cooler nuts before going for the removal whilst engine in route!!

Thanks again for this - yet again the club 80 - 90 'force' is with us...

orangebooboobearcrew wrote:Bloody hell! That's great news if I haven't gotta get the lump out again - it was a right pig to get it back in so if it's 5 hours graft with it still in, that's fine by me!!!

I'll check the pressure switch first and then if not this see if can get a spanner on to tighten cooler nuts before going for the removal whilst engine in route!!

Thanks again for this - yet again the club 80 - 90 'force' is with us...

Dont quote me but I still thing you need to remove the alternator and tinware, fan and fan housing before you can get to the bolts. Unless I have read it wrong

the fuel pipes did go on the right way....didn't they?

I think they were on the right way looking at how they line up but if someone has a diagram or photo that I can use to check - that would be really useful... (sorry, I know I should have marked these but in my enthusiasm I didn't )

you think??...

jeez shouldn't you know before you post?

I know, I know... silly me......

Couldn't see this anywhere in the Haynes and my accomplice (who is not used to working on VW's) foolishly but unwittingly disconnected the pipes when I wasn't around, hence my predicament...

Now mock me as you will, put me in stocks and throw mouldy fruit at me if it makes you feel better...

Just so I'm clear, to prime the carbs with fuel as mentioned here, do I put a capful of fuel in each carb, then reattach the air box, etc or just turn it over without it on? Sorry for silly questions again...

Just turn it over without it on. Everything else spot on.