Club 80-90 Forums

Recently it seems every time I get into the bus it won't start or only just.

Battery charged but soon looses the charge.

It's quite low now, seems to be about 11.5v discharge from battery when nothing running so did the take out fuses one by one and it seems fuse three is the problem. Mind you still have a 0.7v dischage when this is out.

My handbook identifies fuse three as internal lighting.

So it looks like I'll have to check the lighting wiring. Anyone got a wiring diagram that might help.

It's a 1987 Autohomes Kamper 1.9DG

Thanks

Fred

Get yourself a Haynes manual ! got all the wiring diagrams in the back - all the help I can be, sorry !

OK.
You cant measure discharge in volts.
Connect an Ammeter in series with your battery. Start on a 10 A range.
ie disconnect one terminal clamp from the battery. connect one lead of the Ammeter to the battery terminal. Connect the other Ammeter lead to the battery clamp.
The meter should read '0' with nothing switched on.

I dont have my wireing diagrams to hand now but seem to remember fuse 3 also covers the clock and radio on some models.

I'd expect acurrent of a few hundred miliamps for these even when 'OFF'

Post some figures and I'll help further.

T

Thanks for the response Tony

Quite right fuse three is interior/reading lights, clock and radio.

No clock but I do have a radio.

OK measured the amps, 0 on the 10A setting, 3.4 on the 200m setting.

Just curious though why I got a reading when switched to the voltage setting.

Is it posssible I'm on completely the wrong track and I may have a charging/alternator issue ie the battery takes the charge when I put it on the charger but is not being charged when the vehicle is in use?

I must admit I've only used the bus 1-2 times a week recently. Whats a good distance to drive to get a decent charge into the battery?

First ten minutes running replaces the power taken from the battery for starting - after that you should start to put more back in....

We had an issue with ours draining the battery overnight, every night for 3 - turned out the kids had left the pop top light on.......

the easiest way to see if there is a elestrickery leak is to disconnect the battery neg and insert a indecator bulb between the battery and the van at this point, with everything switched off, the bulb wont light, if there is current being drawn it will, the more the brighter it will be..........

[quote="KurzalFlyer"]OK measured the amps, 0 on the 10A setting, 3.4 on the 200m setting.

quote]

3.4miliamps is bugger all. Not worth worrying about.

To check the charging of the battery.
With engine off.
Connect your voltmeter accross the battery. (+ve lead tp +ve terminal -ve lead to -ve terminal. Reading should be about 12V depending on state of battery.
Start the enging at a fast idle.
Voltage should be abot 13.5V to 14.5V

I'd recommend a minimum 10 mins drive to replace the charge in the battery lost due to starting. More if you have to crank it for more than a few seconds.

T

Thanks y'all

Won't get to play with the bus till Friday/Saturday.

Maybe things'll just work then

If not I'll have a fiddle and post back.

tonytech wrote: To check the charging of the battery.
With engine off.
Connect your voltmeter accross the battery. (+ve lead tp +ve terminal -ve lead to -ve terminal. Reading should be about 12V depending on state of battery.
Start the enging at a fast idle.
Voltage should be abot 13.5V to 14.5V
T

Do as tonytech says.

Then, if the reading, with the engine running, is less than 13.5 volts, change the alternator, if it is 13.5 volts or above, change the battery.

Remember also, cheap batteries are like cheap tools, a waste of money.
Get one from a reputable supplier, with a name on the side you know well, like Exide, Lucas, Bosch etc