Club 80-90 Forums

Ok i'm gonna be changing my rear backplates within the next couple of weeks and before i start i was just wondering if there is anything else i should have standing by that may need replacing at the same time, i know the castle nuts can give issues and sometimes need cutting off so i have purchased 2 new ones, my van is my daily driver so this job needs to be covered over a weekend' any info would be greatfully recieved.

Thanx

Be prepared to replace the rear wheel cylinders (buy 2 from Brickwerks and you're covered) as you need to undo the brake pipes to them, also be prepared to replace the pipes to the cylinders, and the rear flexys and anything attached along the line that's not been done in the 3 or 4 years.

Grease everything and then grease it all again just to be sure

Feed the joints you intend to undo with either Plus Gas or brake fluid to soften them ready.

Are you re-doing the shoes and fitting kit too ?

Ian.

WHS^^^^^^^

You will need a 3/4" bar and 46mm socket and a 3 foot lenght of scaffold pole.. an assitant to "!step on the brakes" while you jump up and down on the bar... thats to undo and do up by the way........ Oh and if you are not very big, a fat mate to do the jumping

Thanx for the tips guys, all read and understood


Hadn't planned to do the shoes but i'll wait to see what the wear is on them.

oh.. if you think yo might get to Bourne on a regular basis, then I can lend you my bars and socket.. bring it back the following week..

toomanytoys wrote:oh.. if you think yo might get to Bourne on a regular basis, then I can lend you my bars and socket.. bring it back the following week..

Thanx for that buddy but i should be ok as i'm gonna be doing it in my friends workshop he renovates beetles so he's well versed in all things vw, i'll check with him this week that he has everything that we need

i would alsop replace the rear wheel bearings at the same time whilst its stripped down

faggie wrote:i would alsop replace the rear wheel bearings at the same time whilst its stripped down

This is rapidly turning from a £200 job into a £500 job

If the bearings are good now leave the hubs well alone (watch the seals though) .... if they do go in the next year or 3 you'll know how to get the hub off easily anyway.

Ian.

Ian Hulley wrote:If the bearings are good now leave the hubs well alone (watch the seals though) .... if they do go in the next year or 3 you'll know how to get the hub off easily anyway.

Ian.

Thanx ian i usually work to a "if it aint broke don't fix it" regiem i have ordered new wheel cylinders and castle nuts and have started lubing all the bolts joints etc

As i have new castle nuts is it easier to just grind the old ones off ? being carful to not catch the threads ofcourse

happy camper wrote: is it easier to just grind the old ones off ? being carful to not catch the threads ofcourse

No, just undo them, new split pins of course.

Ian.

Ian Hulley wrote:

happy camper wrote: is it easier to just grind the old ones off ? being carful to not catch the threads ofcourse

No, just undo them, new split pins of course.

Ian.

the shoe pivot dowel gets rusted in good and tight.
after removing the two bolts that hold the pivot lug the whole thing has to be pulled off the dowel

twisting the pivot seemed to free the rust weld
and some judicious levering gets the lug off

kevtherev wrote:the shoe pivot dowel gets rusted in good and tight.
after removing the two bolts that hold the pivot lug the whole thing has to be pulled off the dowel

twisting the pivot seemed to free the rust weld
and some judicious levering gets the lug off

Cheers kev

kevtherev wrote:the shoe pivot dowel gets rusted in good and tight.
after removing the two bolts that hold the pivot lug the whole thing has to be pulled off the dowel

twisting the pivot seemed to free the rust weld
and some judicious levering gets the lug off

Or use a punch and hammer and whack it through (either from the front or back), which is a bit easier... plenty of "plus gas" and wire brushing first mind....