Club 80-90 Forums

that you would reccomend ? i thought about using castrol GTX 15/40

Virtually any normal mineral "branded" 15w40 is fine.. or 15w50 or 20w50.........

BUT.. the Fuchs oil from GSF is a lot cheaper than GTX from halfords etc....

fuchs meaning to "feck" me motor lol

what is wrong with semi synthetic or even fully synthetic oil surely its a better oil

Synthetic oils are at the thinner end of the spectrum and are generally too thin for old engines as it seeps through into places it shouldn't and gets burnt off; leading to rough running, smoking and more
frequent oil topups. Thicker oils generally stay where they should and do their job, I say generally because oil still finds it's way to where it shouldn't with these engines! 20W50 or 30W mineral oil are best for an older engine, a bit like giving granny cod liver oil. I use halfords 20W50 "classic" motor oil as it comes in a 5 liter tin that fits nicely in the back of my van with a spare bit of oil and it has added swelling agents. The only down side is it's so thick it takes ages to pour in after an oil change!

Excellent, another 'what oil' thread. Haven't had one in ages!

(Sorry, had to be said!)

Is there any way to adjust the search facility so it recognises less than 4 letters? Then perhaps folk would find the answer to their oil questions easier.....

is there a way to stop folks being lazy bu66ers and try using the wiki and search facility..

Is there any way to adjust the search facility so it recognises less than 4 letters?

chuckle-bus-tom wrote:20W50 or 30W mineral oil are best for an older engine, a bit like giving granny cod liver oil.

Neither of which were ever used in ratty buses '89' wasserboxer engine! from new.

The last time VW used 30 weight mono grade oil was back in the early 70's (late split/early bay era)
And even 20W50 was phased out several years before ratty buses 'bus' was made. By '89' Volkswagen had been using 15W40 for several years (I should know, I was there working at a main VAG outlet in Nottm)
Why O why do people insist on using 70's oil technology in their late 80's buses, it is just beyond my understanding.
You'll be retrofitting cable brakes on your T3 next!

Martin

SyncroSwede wrote:Excellent, another 'what oil' thread. Haven't had one in ages!

(Sorry, had to be said!)

thank you

i just want to run as original as possible , soon the electrical service will be finished .service will commence soon as i finish the brakes ..,

thats a fair point Martin.
But and there's always a but, in my view, 20w 50 mineral quietens tappets, tappets that are at the end of their service.
Engine oil does a lot more then lubricate the engine. It also seals the piston rings and cools the engine to a degree.
There's not much difference between a 15w 40 and a 20w 50 I know, but the latter seems to maintain oil pressure in the tappet gallery just that little bit higher. I assume because it stays a little bit more viscous in higher temps
I find the cooler the engine runs.. the higher the gallery pressure is.

Kev

SyncroSwede wrote:Excellent, another 'what oil' thread. Haven't had one in ages!

(Sorry, had to be said!)

Yeah... but I resisted...

I should have said.. if your engine is tired and rattly 20w50 will help.

30W....... dont even go there... totally unsutable, unless you are desperate... the old "monograde" legacy is from an era where the scientists didnt understand what was happening with the multigrades.. they do now..

As Martin said, VW specced 15w40 from new.. so you dont really want to be going thinner as 20 odd years of wear and tear wont have made the clearances any better..
Also.. dont be fooled by the API classifications.. everyone assumes that the higher the letter the better the oil.. not strictly true.. But thats another boring thread actually...

CALM DOWN!

Blimey, if oil gets everyone this worked up, imagine what would happen if there was a question about lowering or split charging!!

(I hold up my hands about the 30 grade, I was wrong, but 20W50 is definately what these old bangers need!)

I'll repent Kev and say....15W40 on a known good engine and 20W50 on a higher mileage example displaying frequent morning tappet rattles. As a side note* I made a big mistake last year not following my own advice, brought and filled up with 10W40 as that was all my local motor factors had in stock.....piggin ell...the hydraulic tappets rattled every second/third time it was started from cold....well at least it was a good engine flush lol.