Club 80-90 Forums

ok, its a 1y engine and some of the glow plugs are shot, and the timing is probably out.
the thing is, there are no timing marks on the pulley wheels, so where do i start? there is no reference point!
when the motor is running its very "klackety" like an older model F0rd transit used to sound, is the pump timing too advanced?
also when i spray easi start into the airbox in the morning the engine locks tight and has trouble turning off he starter motor . also, when its running and i spray a "tiny" amount ino the airbox, the klackety noise goes away until the easi start has has been used by the enging, then the klacky noise comes back!!! has anyone had similar troubles?

Not an expert but the timing mark is on the clutch - not the flywheel. Its a series of notches and the middle point is TDC. Obvious when you've seen it.

There are not timing marks as such elsewhere. There is a notch to put the locking bar on the cam and a hole to put the locking pin in the pump pulley.

Sounds like you need to check your timing....

Ringo

Ringo is right do a search and iam sure I asked the same question but it's not hard a drill bit, a bar and the notch on the clutch plate

i need to change the belt anyway.... flywheel timing mark on mine is painted blue(easy to spot) when the weather rises above freezing i will have a look for these hole in the pulley wheels. any idea of what size bolt is supposed to slot in there?

I can't remember but I used a drill bit, if you take the rocker off there is a slot cut into the rear end of the cam shaft there is a proper tool but I used some steel plate and it worked a treat

cheers mucka. well done on the army thing, did a bit of SF stuff myself not so long back..... if youre off to afghan anytime soon, keep yer ed down and carry on firing!!........

And to time the engine properly you need to undo the camshaft sprocket bolt & loosen it on the taper .When the cambelt is tensioned the sprocket will turn on the camshaft taper .I suggest you read up on these engines as its easy to cause damage if you dont no.Due to my own mistakes years ago it cost me a replacement cylinder head.

I think you would only need to slacken the camshaft pulley bolt if you had to adjust its position on the camshaft with the belt on i.e. cam is not "timed" to TDC and slot in the end of the camshaft is not "flat" but when you are fitting a new belt as long as you have the camshaft locked in the correct place and No.1 cylinder TDC with locking pin in the injector pump pulley, Bobs your auntie. Yes, when you tension the belt and remove all your locking devices you may find after spannering the engine over that the camshaft could be one tooth out.......now you can slacken the camshaft pulley OR just refit the belt.
How does everyone else do this I wonder. I have always done it this way and I am not saying it is the right way.
ALSO when I set TDC I always remove No.1 injector and poke a bit of stiffish wire into the hole and "feel" TDC to be sure to be sure. Interesting isn,t it ?

AHA !! I see now after a bit of silver haired slow thinking what you mean. Just goes to show I have been doing it "my way" for years and refitting the belt for the sake of one notch but allowing the cam sprocket to move on the locked camshaft then tightening the tapered pulley makes a heeluva lot of sense, good man, thankyou, life will never be the same again.

This is quite good........

http://www.vwdieselparts.com/injtim.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

oh bugger, a DTI tool is proabaly £1 million to buy

Yes - its not cheap. Wack in the adapter from Brickwerks and the price goes up....

Ringo

Much cheaper and IMO easier than a DTI gauge plus adaptor is this:-

It's a 4mm bolt. Push it in the end of the pump till the bolt is against the piston. Wind the nut down to the washer at the end of the pump. Remove the bolt, take off the washer and measure position of nut. The spring stops the nut moving while you measure.
And measure the position of the nut with a vernier caliper like this:-

Plus the verner caliper is a useful thing to have anyway. I have a DTI gauge but don't use it for timing any more, cos this is easier and more intuitive.

Colin

it seems you assume i know what i am doing in the first place!!! to begin with what am i actually measuring?
in the "wvdieselparts" link, it states there is a pin in place(pump), so how are you supposed to measure it if its locked i place??
its probably a piece of p1ss if youve done it once before!!!!! BUT I HAVENT

Once you have removed the centre fitting which is in the middle of the four injection pipes on the pump if you just pushed a small rod in this hole and turned the pump you would feel the pump piston going in and out. Got it so far ? Now then, the position of this piston is relevant to where No.1 piston is. With No.1 piston at top dead center and both No.1 cylinder valves closed, camshaft lobes will be uppermost. Now turn the pump until the pump piston is into the pump and neither moving in or out. From this point this is where your accurate measurement comes in. Turn the pump in its normal direction until it has moved 0.98mm. You will see at the end of the camshaft there is an offset slot and you should fit a nice fitting bit of flat bar in the slot to lock the camshaft in this position. No.1 cylinder piston must be at top dead center (take the inspection bung out of the bell housing) in the hole you should see when the piston is top dead center as there is a mark on the clutch and a pointer.
Piston 1 top dead center
Camshaft locked in position
Pump set
Fit your cambelt.
Seemples.
PART TWO..... if you already have the belt on turn the engine over with a spanner on the bottom pulley and line up timing mark on flywheel/clutch and check the camshaft slot. Now you can adjust the injector pump "travel" by slackening the three slotted bolts that joins the pulley to the pump driveplate.
Hope this helps and makes a bit of sense and if I have not explained it that well or made a bit of a mistake or missed something PLEASE someone put me right.