Club 80-90 Forums

Happy New Year to All!!

I've got an intermittent knocking from the offside front. Since I've also got a split inner CV boot on the same axle it's probably a no brainer.

However, what if it's the outer CV joint?.......This is where the question comes in. I want to lift the van at least 20mm or so at some point. Syncro services and Busman both do "Heavy Duty" CV joints giving 23 degrees over original 17 degrees (apparantly).

Has anyone got any experience with these and/or are they any good? Are they a prerequesite if you want to lift it anyway?..........or are they over kill and will the standard CV joints be OK? I only want to do this job once.

.........one more question anyone know why the front CV joints are different for a dif lock and non diff lock vehicle?

I've also heard someone used Porsche CV joints? is that right and if so why and which model Porsche?

I was going to start the job today but it's still sub zero and I've only got a car port..... Ok I'm wimpish!

Look forward to any comments

I've run 15mm front lift with standard 14" joints for the last 12 months with no issues that I'm aware of, well serviced used joints, mostly run 14" rubber, 15" at weekends

I have around a ~1" lift on my pickup with standard CVJ's and all good so far. Syncro-Services 20mm spacers in front and simple home-made spacers in back. The front camber is maxed out so ~1" is about the limit without further mods.

14" front outer CV joints and 16" front outer CV joints are the same thing.
16" front outers with diff lock have a larger CV joint (and boot)
As far as i know, and open to being told I'm wrong, there are no 23° front outer CV joints.

The 17° versus 23° debate is for the rear where you need more, dunno, inclination when lifting a syncro.
No real point fitting them to the front inner as they don't need it.

The porsche CV joints are the 23° versions, and fitted to mid 80's ish 944's, they get their extra articulation because the are about 3mm deeper than a standard joint, they are also treated differently and come with a black finish, I presume judging by the material that they are treated to make them harder.

Standard rear dampers (poss a little longer), 20mm spacers and Porsche CV joints on something light will be just about as far as you can go as the driveshafts start to touch the rear arm where the driveshaft exits the trailing arm.

16" syncro has larger rear CV joints (and boots) on the rear regardless of difflocks.

Hope that puts it in a easy to remember fashion without all the padding/waffle/fluff that the Americans seem to paint everything with.

Why buy from belgium when you can buy here for a lot less?

^ WHS
Front outers have more than 23 deg in any case... thats why the turning circle is so good..

Rears only need higher angle cv's if fitting longer shocks.. (Although IIRC a couple are running longer shocks on std cv's without issues.. so far)
a spacer (TD style 15mm) under the spring will still jack the van on std shocks..

Longer bolts required for the "high angle" cvs

Im running standard CVJ's with a 2" lift and long shocks with no issues. I checked the rotation of the shaft whilst on full rebound and there was no issues there either.

I thought it was you Andrew... but wasnt sure..

@Simon Baxter

Cheers for some good information, right there.

If possible, could you elaborate a bit on the Porsche 944 CV's, please.

I have busted my front, outer CV and need to replace it. I drive a 16" with diff front and back. I have raised it roughly 5cm both front and rear.

Can I use a Porsche 944 CV for the front, outer, and if yes, what type exactly?

I have seen a T3 CV 'with Diff Lock' (that's how they advertise it), but it is very expensive. The Porsche CV is much, much cheaper, but is it as strong/durable?

Hope you have time to share some more knowledge : )

Cheers,

- Jensen

Syncro only part for front outers... 944 cvs for rear inners and outers on 14", inner fronts on 14" and 16"...

Have a look on Brickwerks as Si has sorted the front outer CV supply problem I believe