Club 80-90 Forums

Hi

1.9DG but engine in van that was originally DF so has an idle stabilisation module but newish Dg engine, early cooling system and Pierburg carb.

generally good, newish engine, components and G12+ coolant. Had an odd problem, initially, under load the engine does not seem to pull well but if i floor it it flies but it seems not to respond well to load. It also struggls to get even 1/4 of the way up the coolant temp gauge even after a long run at 70 on motorway (in very cold temperatures btw) it feels almost as if it had a vacuum-less distributor even though I know it has the right dizzy (of unknown origin mind) . Has been run with two different Pierburg carbs, one known good on another engine. Recent new coolant, bled and flushed , used BrickYard insructions to do so.
Radiator is hot (not scorching) when touched but heater does not blow very warm at all (am aware that heater bypassses thermonstat). I wondered- when i reccently timed it to 5 degrees BTDC with a strobe timer (i joined the two connectors together that go into the idle stabuilisation valve) Timed with engine warm so that the V nearest the block is in line with the crankcase split (vac hose off and blocked) all seemed good BUT i just wondered is it poss that i should bypass the idle stabilisation valve for everyday running as the timing sems all ovet eh place with this connected up? I also wondered if its posible that when trying to take the magnetic pickup, corcular thingy off the dizzy to rebuild it i might have disconnected or troubled something inside the dizzy which could have the effect of damaging the timing/advance system? I was guessing, if timing were out /dizzy damaged in some way is it poss that this could also effect heater temperature? thanks. Tim

tim lots of info there to process. if i`ve got it right you have a dj running on a carb. yes? i have noticed that the ignition controll on the MV engines are directly affected by the possitioning of the air meter / throttle switch. i noticed that if the settings on throttle / air are not right when you reconnect the wire that reinstates ignition controll the timing at idle advances dramaticly and bounces all over the place, exactly as if the weight springs in the dizzy are fubared.

dont know if this is relevent on yours but it may be if its had a carb fitted.

Thanks Lee.
It's not a DJ its a 1.9 DG but fitted in my 83 joker that orginally had a DF (60hp) engine. When i got it she had a solex carb and twin outlet dizzy with manifold to match the carb but this was the set up on DF engines and clearly the original engine had been swapped for a Dg but the ancilliaries kept as DF. So, i upgraded recently to what the DG ought o have , ie the correct single vac dizzy and Pierburg 2E carb. But what you say about the weights sounds like its in the right area and tomorrow i'm going to try running her with the idle stabilisation unit wires joined, bypassing the unit and see if this makes a difference. Just thought that as my problem happens at all speeds but more so under load it feels more mechanical than might be governed electronically? T

DG's never had idle stabilisation.. not any I have seen in anycase.. bypass it.. does sound like thats an issue.. but also make sure dizzy is working properl (if you didnt take it apart and there is no need, dont.. just make sure mech advance is smooth) and vac advance unit connected correctly and not leaking and the carb needs to be in good nick, pref rebiult with a gasket kit.. and set up as per haynes procedure which is pretty good...

Have by passed idle stabilisation unit and seems to run ok but have not tested properly, same hesitation is present i think but not yet tried under load. Lee re your DG dizzy i thought that the DG dizzy should only have one outlet or were there different models for different years? If so where would the second van pipe go to on the carb/air set up? The one i have which has the right part number for a DG dizzy has only one vac outlet.
Toomanytoys, thanks for your help. I'm not sure how to check for smooth advance running and my strobe light does not have the facility to check advance at different revs unfortuantely. Is there a way of telling if the advance is working smoothly apart from noting the movement of timing parks anti-clockwise with the strobe light on? thanks.

Tim

DG vac advance has 1 ..
Suck on the vac advance unit.. it musnt leak... if it does, then that will cause hessitation and stalling just off idle.. ie just as you want to pull out of a junction...

Yes, observe the timing lmarks as you gently increase the rpm.. should be nice and smooth..

Thanks- does that mean, if the vac unit or pipes were to have a leak that the symptoms would persist accross the rev range i.e. when on the motorway going up a slight incline especially if i want to accelerate it almost needs a 'kick down' i.e. a firm push on the gas which feels to me a bit like what it used to be like running a 009 on an air cooled camper i.e. poor sense of load and a rather on or off aproach to acceleration. Will check hoses and vac unit. I had vaguely wondered if when i tried to lift off the metal disk inside the top of the distributor which presumably has pickup or magnet within I might accidentally dislodged /movd/ broke the link rod that connects th vac unit to carb.

Anyone got another DG dizzy that I could try or buy?

NB Solex carb , twin outlet distributor and manifold for sale. They do work- should have left it all alone!!!

cheers

Tim