Club 80-90 Forums

van has run fine since i`ve had it untill 2 months ago. set out for a few days hols and van started running badly popped in to the garage and found it was running very rich so we went away in the car ." i had just put the exhaust back on the night before and had had the oxy sensor disconnected "

got back and after lots of pissing about found the oxy sensor inop. changed it " proper part " along with temp 2 sensor, plugs and found the settings for the air and fuel were all to pot. so set these up and when it started it reved its nuts off. put it down to the fact it hasn`t got a throttle switch fitted so disconnected idle valve and all was well apart from initial start up where a little throttle was needed.

it`s run fine for a few trips and has been much smoother. needed to pull exhaust off again last week " long story " so disconnected oxy sensor and exhaust, was very gentle with sensor after past experiance and after refitting i have the same bloody problem as before. running major rich.

so back to the garage and i`ve found that if i disconnect the 2 yellow connectors it runs sweet at idle but as soon as i reconnect them the fuel goes very rich and i`m not getting any voltage feed back from the oxy sensor even when its running nice at idle " yellow connectors disconnected"

am i missing something. i`m tired, i`m starting to doubt myself and i`m going round in circles so i`ve come home and left the bloody thing in work.

Even a brand new oxygen sensor can go faulty and there are several 'brands' to avoid as they are known to not last long. Some of the GSF supplied ones are absolute carp (Thompson I think) but they have supplied me with NGK (NCK?) brand which are pretty decent quality.
Bosch/Beru also good.
Martin

If it helps lee I fitted four condensers to a vintage Bedford horsebox this summer before I got one that was good. My parts supplier knows me pretty well and when the problems started just said take the box no on else buys them bring back when you have sorted the job.
I suspect like RW you have just had bad luck with a faulty component and are doubting yourself rather than the thing causing the problem.

ok got a replacement oxy sensor this afternoon tested it on the bench and all`s well. took oxy sensor out of van and tested that, no voltage so all was looking good. fitted new oxy sensorf an the f***ing thing is the same.

where can i get ecu pin data from. either that or a box of matches.

Lee, my understanding of the MV is that it has a limp home mode that enables you to disconnect the Lambda. The ecu runs the engine in the same way as the DJ does, just using look up codes. The American tuners unplug the lambda to do basic engine setting tuning.

The engine can learn some faults, and work around them. So I would unplug the lambda and see what happens after a bit of a drive.

Simon.

Was updating as you were Lee,

Have a look here for the protraining manual for the MV.


http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/File ... US&lang=en" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Got to ask how are you testing the lamber probe as they are working on milli volts as I understand. When I bought my doka there was not even one conected had a dj exaust section. So I had to by an exaust section and the probe. Conected it up and had to soldr the actual screened cable and join the snap conector in the normal way. I was told that if you disconect the battery for 5 or 10 mins the ecu should rest itsself to the factory setting. But with the probe not conected the van drove perfectly well as I said it was not untill I had the van for well over 2 months that I was told that this probe was missing.
Also how are you testing that it is running so ritch? Are you using a coulor tune or something.

Very intrested in you findings neil

axeman wrote:Got to ask how are you testing the lamber probe as they are working on milli volts as I understand. When I bought my doka there was not even one conected had a dj exaust section. So I had to by an exaust section and the probe. Conected it up and had to soldr the actual screened cable and join the snap conector in the normal way. I was told that if you disconect the battery for 5 or 10 mins the ecu should rest itsself to the factory setting. But with the probe not conected the van drove perfectly well as I said it was not untill I had the van for well over 2 months that I was told that this probe was missing.
Also how are you testing that it is running so ritch? Are you using a coulor tune or something.

Very intrested in you findings neil

He runs/works in a garage, so I presume using the MOT gas test equipment.

Only brands I have found to be reliable are Beru and Bosch, I stock Beru as they are a bit cheaper than the Bosch.
They don't like universal sensors at all.
Not checked up fully, but I expect that a lambda probe is similar to a EGT thermocouple, and that if you introduce any junctions into the wiring (by soldering) then you could upset the readings, also why I presume that universal lambda sensors are supplied with crimp connections.
Did you manage to get the lambda sensor wire to solder at all? that stuff is weird, very tough wire and I don't think it's copper based.

Another reason why WBX's are a load of toss, you can't get any live data out of the ECU nevermind faultcodes, back to oldschool mechanics I'm affraid.


Funny as a MKII golf has a very similar ECU, only that is clever enough to sort it's own idle out, it's mappable and you can get faultcodes and live data out of it.
If I was ever daft enough to own a WBX (not likely) then I always wondered about robbing the ECU from a golf and trying it, just to see...

big thanks syncrsimon, there`s some reading to get through there for me.

lee.

niel as baxter says i`m using a proper 4 gas tester as used in mot`s, plus i smell like i`ve been dipped in fuel and all dizzy like so i know its defo rich.
got good info of sincrosimon now so i should be able to progress a bit once i`ve read through it all.

baxter i couldn`t agree with you more on the petrol front.
thing is the time i spend getting this right i could have put the effort in to doing the tdi conversion i have planned for the doka on the 16 instead. i just dont want the 16 off the road for long what with winter comming and i`ve promissed the kids a camp out up snowdon in the snow if we ever get some.

thanks all. lee.

ps.... baxter the oil leak`s sorted with 50 seal.

Have you fitted a throttle switch? that wont be helping..
Just from the saga of sorting out a DJ that had been buggered about with by several peeps and had a multitude of "adjustments" done... took everything back to base line then discovered a couple of other items... (not applicable to you as one was a manual ECU fitted to an Auto van, I happened to have an auto ECU with me and then it ran perfect...)

no i haven`t got a throttle switch but your right i`ll have to get one thing is the vans done over 10,000 miles that i know of without one. no wonder it`s a bit thirsty.
anyone got a switch for me please.

Might have.. need to have a look in the box..

Without the switch, the ECU thinks its "under load" so will be trying to compensate...

switch done set properly now its idling spot on good gas but only with the grey wire in the engine bay disconnected. once you reconnect the grey wires the co starts to rise untill it maxes out. oxy sensors working fine and ect is good, afm tests good so i`m guessing that when the ecu maping is allowed to take over the base settings something is telling the ecu to go rich either that or the ecu i fubarred.

looks like the tdi will be going in sooner than i thought. .

thanks lee.

Lee, do you still have a cat on yours. If she has been running rich for a time then the 20 yr old cat may well be clogged. This could be causing the rich running. I would suggest a good long run, and see what the ecu does. Some say it takes 30 minutes for the ecu to re learn any changes.