Club 80-90 Forums

See here for topic in Technical (thought i'd bring it up in here as well, posibly more EGT gauge owners over this way....

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61381

The Stack stuff is nice top end gear.
I tried to get an account with them, but they wouldn't give me one as I could spend £10k a year with them!

On another note, i do have an account with SPA design, just never used it.
they do a nice integrated EGT/Boost gauge, they run a separate interface box, and the wires on it are quite short but they were willing to build me a T3 specific kit with lengthened wires to suit the rear engine lay out.

You have to be very careful about lengthening wires on EGT gauges, I don't fully understand the science behind it but as far as I can tell the thermocouple works on some principle or other to do with the "Junction of 2 metals", if you add extra metal into the equasion then it will give misleading readings. If you do lengthen the wires they must NOT be soldered, crimped instead, and what you do to one wire must be done to the other, that way you have the same junctions in either lead and the effects will cancel each other out, or something.

If you read the GTD boards you will hear them banging on about aircraft spruce thermocouples, as they are small and they react very quickly, the UK distributor for the same parts is http://www.airworld.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; , they can sell you a thermocouple (cheap) and a budget EGT gauge also if you don't mind the aviation look! The wire that they send you though for lengthening the leads is a bit dubious though, I wouldn't bother with that.
The wire you want is that oldschool stuff that they use inside of electric ovens and the like.
Also, if you are mixing and matching thermocouples and gauges be aware that there are 2 types, J type and K type, most stuff is K type, but there are a few J types out there so just be wary.

I use a VDO gauge, they don't list them in europe, i had to get mine from the states, wasn't that expensive, the thermocouple they supply is, er, well, chunky and it's a bit retarded to be honest, it's not the quickest it has to be said, if i were to do it again I would use a Airworld thermocouple for speed of reaction and the VDO gauge, or failing that I would just buy the kit from SPA and have done.

Oh, another note.
I notice on the other thread there is some debate over boost pressure in bar, but EGT is °F.
I went for bar, as I understand that, that's what i was taught at school, I'm comfortable with it.
I am also comfortable with °C, I would have prefered to have a gauge in °C but..

When you read about, most people who use EGT gauges are American, they use °F.
I am "pooh" at maths, mental arithmetic is not a strong point!
I plumped for a °F gauge basically so I could join in with the septics, and compare my readings with them without having to do the maths.
It may as well be measured in incrememnts of Pork pies for me, the divisions are not important, the numbers are to compare and be happy you know what is safe.
I know my AAZ Westy will sit on the motorway at 65mph with the EGT's sat at 650°F
If I boot it, they will rise to 1000°F
If I go up "Windy Hill" (Milnrow to Saddleworth on the M62 East Bound - local yardstick for such things) it will be sat at 1200°F by the time I pull out of the top @ 1.5 bar boost
I am comfortable with that!

Great info, thanks Si.

I must admit i am beggining to sway towards making my own life easier and just getting an EGT gauge in F. Seems they are much easier to come by, and after all i can tell how fast i'm going in a KPH vehicle so adjusting my head to read F shouldnt be too much bother.

Think i'll still get a boost guage in PSI though, cant work Bar out to save my life. PSI just makes sense to me.

The search continues....

1 bar is 15 psi, nice easy one that, °C to °F isn't!

Everyone is different, each prefer their own way, I went with what I was comfortable working with.

http://shop.airworlduk.com/egt-gauge--r ... 2-23-p.asp


Any good for thee? An EGT has been on my list to add to the Van for ages!

Stupid question

Why would anyone need to know the temperature of there exhaust pipe?

Yeah, ive had a bit of a poke around in airworld.

Quite keen on a Westach gauge that combines both EGT and Boost into a single gauge (Westach 2DC2-30SS) but its bloody hard to find much info on them.....

But they are VERY reasonably priced hey!

jake is that along with the oil preashuse gauge that i found for you

neil

axeman wrote:jake is that along with the oil preashuse gauge that i found for you l

Yes mate, the list is a loonnngg one.

I actually made a list recently.
Its surprising how much easier it is to make stuff happen once youve got it all written down! (more expensive though it would seem.... )

Just check that the airworld one is backlit.
I have a feeling you have to specify when ordering, that is if you are considering it.

eatcustard wrote:Stupid question

Why would anyone need to know the temperature of their exhaust pipe?

You don't on a standard engine, it is of no concern usually, more than likely make you paranoid but on a tuned engine it tells you how far you can push things without it going pop.
Thing is with a Diesel, they are throttled by fuel, the more fuel you add the higher then engine speed, they are unlike a petrol and you don't have lean and rich, well, I suppose you do but in a different way.
Diesels run "lean" at idle and only get somewhere near stoichometric at full chat.
To make a Diesel go faster you need to increase it's volumetric efficiency, basically get more power from the volume you have available to work with.
So, you increase the boost pressure (increase in boost pressure means you cram more air into the cylinder(s), which will result in more cylinder filling giving the potential for more power.....
.... but boost is no good without any fuel to burn with it, so you need to increase fuel also.
Several ways to add fuel, people seem to think that turning the fuel screw will "Make it richer", which it doesn't, it just basically moves the fuel map up a bit hence the increase in idle speed when you do so, hence why you have to then drop the idle speed back down again. And like i said earlier by turning the fuel screw all you have really achieved is an engine that will deliver more fuel at the top end of the rev range meaning that you can hold it in gear longer which will make it feel quicker.
but... more fuel means more heat created, more heat created will also increase boost pressure as the turbo works on heat not flow...
But, if you add too much fuel at the top end then the EGT will rise and if you go too far you may end up with molten pistons, not a good position to be in.

Any clown can give an engine more boost.
Any clown can give an engine more fuel, but if you have no idea how hot things are getting then you have no idea how long your engine will last or if your modifications are on the dangerous side.

Several ways to reduce EGT's, larger bore unrestricted exhaust (2.5" ideal for 1.6l to 1.9l)
Intercooling, or charge cooling.
Water injection.
Not add so much fuppin fuel!!
I read recently on here someone had nigh on 150 whp out of a AAZ but it went bang, that should give some clues.

Hmmm, now ive got a quandry and a half...

Found a ºC VDO EGT gauge, little bit pricey....but exactly what i was looking for...(thanks Pete)

Airworld stuff is cheap....but not exactly what i was looking for....

Stack EGT gauge is nice, quality kit (not quite VDO) but good nonetheless...

VDO thermocouple is ..retarded..

Airworld one is the one to have...

Stack Boost gauge is expensive..

VDO one is very reasonable...

Matching gauges....or not matching gauges...

FFS,...its a right bloody mine field this init!!

I would go mantching Al for what it's worth and if it's 'c' that can only be a bonus, I personaly like the VDO that is what I am using in my van and am very happy with them.

Neil