Club 80-90 Forums

just uprated the all of the shocks and springs and the van is now sitting about 35mm heigher than before (standard) and was wondering of the effects on the camber ajustment. as it looks slightly out of alinement on the front only , the wheel apear to be toeing out at the top not by a massive amount but it can be seen slightly by eye. is the a diy way of ajusting it or is special equipment needed?

thanks neil

loads of info here mate...https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/St ... _Alignment

axeman wrote:just uprated the all of the shocks and springs and the van is now sitting about 35mm heigher than before (standard) and was wondering of the effects on the camber ajustment. as it looks slightly out of alinement on the front only , the wheel apear to be toeing out at the top not by a massive amount but it can be seen slightly by eye. is the a diy way of ajusting it or is special equipment needed?

thanks neil

Needs checking at least I would say along with the tracking too. I know when Stans van was raised Baxter had a right time trying to sort the camber on his westy. Yours being a light pick up with those springs could cause a similar problem i guess but leave it a couple of days and it will settle down abit and sit lower i think. Cant wait to see it i bet it looks good.

jed

Didn't the Baxter chap go to great lengths to issue a set of figures for the front end geometry on a Syncro

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/VehicleSpec ... ometry.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

syncropaddy wrote:Didn't the Baxter chap go to great lengths to issue a set of figures for the front end geometry on a Syncro

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/VehicleSpec ... ometry.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Dunno really i am a Plasterer and didnt understand him...

jed

jed the spread wrote:

syncropaddy wrote:Didn't the Baxter chap go to great lengths to issue a set of figures for the front end geometry on a Syncro

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/VehicleSpec ... ometry.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Dunno really i am a Plasterer and didnt understand him...

jed

Hmmmmmmm........

Im retired and senile but I managed

Your not that senile Andrew! I BET i AM MORE sENILE THAN yOU

had a look at the link to baxter's site that paddy put up, so i guess that with that info i should go to a tyre place and let them play with it?

thanks neil

I'll be interested to see how this goes - I'm having a right faff getting mine set up properly!

The BCE wrote:I'll be interested to see how this goes - I'm having a right faff getting mine set up properly!

You need a bigger hammer .....

syncropaddy wrote:

The BCE wrote:I'll be interested to see how this goes - I'm having a right faff getting mine set up properly!

You need a bigger hammer .....

I'll tell my mechanic

I have set my camber to zero, ie vertical. this is easy to do by eye, on a flat bit of ground.

The local nationwide tyres guy then set the toe to -1mm. All is good 1000miles later.

easy.

Biggest problem i have is getting enough positive camber, even on some standard vans, think some may need a acro prop between the strut tops to push the turrets out a bit, i just wonder if any have gone saggy over the years and collapsed in a bit.
i should find some jigging data and see if there is a measurement for front upper strut mount to other front upper strut mount.
Stans isn't far away, but with the height of it we also ran out of castor adjustment, the radius rods aren't long enough to get it right, obviously all the steering angles have an effect on each other.
Generally when T3 syncros are raised you get increased castor giving the tramlining effect, the van doesn't want to do much other than go in straight lines, and they tend to wander.
After that, camber goes more negative, camber also usually ends up at or very near full adjustment, T3 syncro run a little positive camber, set it to zero and they drift on the road.
tracking is dependent on suspension height, once you have set the other 2, or got them as close as they will go then set the tracking using the chart thing I did, I've used it at work on a few vans now and it seems to work well.
Set castor >> Camber >> tracking in that order, then go back and check from begining again.
I bet a pound to a pinch of sh!t that you can only get the tracking bang on, the rest will be a comprimise.
It will however be a million times better, and for the tiny amount that it is out you probably won't notice other than a slight drift if you let go of the wheel.

Simon Baxter wrote:I bet a pound to a pinch of sh!t that you can only get the tracking bang on, the rest will be a comprimise.
It will however be a million times better, and for the tiny amount that it is out you probably won't notice other than a slight drift if you let go of the wheel.

Well said sir, any thing that has been modified is a comremise unless youve got the time (and gear) to modifie every other comonent in the running gear to suit the lift/lowering mod that has been done

Mr.Baxter,
Thankyou for the words of wisdom,that explains a lot to me as well, after fitting uprated springs last year,it was scary to start with as the beast hopped and skipped across the road under hard cornering,however now its settled down, I have some negative camber back and it corners very well, mine always had negative camber but I put it down to oversize wheels and tyres and knackered joints {on the van, not my own!} they,re well knackered believe me.
Will be redoing my suspension shortly, so thankyou all