Club 80-90 Forums

Hi everyone,

I've been a member of this forum for a while, but have only needed it for reference, up til now
Back in May I bought Colin, a 1982 2.0l air-cooled T25. He has always run well (except for when the brakes failed...in that circumstance, he ran well, but didn't stop well).


About a month ago, Colin was turned over and made a noise, not unlike a tractor/bag of hammers. So, we turned him off and called the garage. Turns out the oil reader was wrong and he had been run without oil. Oh dear. He and the engine are now at the garage, and we have been advised to get a new/re con engine. This has been quoted at £1,500, without VAT and fitting. The final bill would be around £2,000.
What would you all recommend? Do I go for this option, or should I get someone to re-con/rebuild the current engine. I've been told that the heads are fine, but the main bearings will need replacing amongst other things (I think I have it all written down somewhere).
Is £2,000 all told a good price? Please help!

(By the way, below is a picture of Colin the Wonderbus in his current glory livery. Apologies for the large images)

not mine or anything to do with me

engine on ebay

Hi Lara
sorry to hear about Colins engine. I would consider my options before spending that amount of money.
1 Ring a few local engineering companies and get quotes on a recondition, crank will need skimming and new mains big ends, prob small ends etc.
2 Look at secondhand engines, not sure what they go for but plenty of people on here can advise. But BE CAREFUL, lots of rubbish gets sold, perhaps talk to some of the people here who trade/ofer services
3 There are a cheap reconditioners called elite engines a few people on here report no probs using them.
4 whatever option you go fo get quotes on the fitting, not just the one place, perhaps someone on here would do it at reasonable cost, aircooleds are pretty easy and quick to do on type IIs but I have never done one on a T25 but I wouldnt hve thought problemical.
Perhaps PM Covkid, he used to mobile mechanic on aircooleds so can probably advise on time and any difficulties.
HTH
Richard

You should be able to have it out, ancillaries swapped over and back in in a day if the exhaust etc comes off ok, elite engines are £950 plus £150 for fitting if you go to them. They are based in basildon, essex so getting it there could be a problem. Other than that its getting your taken out and rebuilt. But could prove just as expensive. I'd go for a recon lump and either fit it yourself or get someone local, willing and able to do it.

From when i took mine out its about 9 bolts,the heat risers, about 8 wires, throttle cable and fuel pipe need disconnecting, then the swap over work with new gaskets etc.

air cooled engine parts are readily available.
I agree with damien, if you are confident of removing it then it will be considerably less expensive.

From when i took mine out its about 9 bolts,the heat risers, about 8 wires, throttle cable and fuel pipe need disconnecting, then the swap over work with new gaskets etc.

simples

Lara, had the van been stood for a while before you started it? May just be the oil has gotten low and drained from the hydraulic tappets (I think the 2l has them...)
Makes the engine sound like a total bag of nails. Top up the oil and go driving for at least half an hour . Should get the pressure back up and problem solved. Ran my ct (1.6) virtually dry last spring but topped her up and no probs.
Might be worth a try before parting with the hard earned!

Andy, Julie, & Bobdog wrote:Lara, had the van been stood for a while before you started it? May just be the oil has gotten low and drained from the hydraulic tappets (I think the 2l has them...)
Makes the engine sound like a total bag of nails. Top up the oil and go driving for at least half an hour . Should get the pressure back up and problem solved. Ran my ct (1.6) virtually dry last spring but topped her up and no probs.
Might be worth a try before parting with the hard earned!

Yup i'd defo try giving him a kill it or cure it dash for glory before spendin all that mullah

If it wasn't noisy before you stopped, then I would be very surprised if you ran out of oil.
If however it was quiet when you last used it and now it is noisy when it starts, then I would imagine the oil has drained from the hydraulic lifters. This causes gaps in the pushrod assembly that operate the valves and makes them knock together instead of pushing them gently. This will also make one 'ell of of lot of noise... Enough to make you think the engine has run out of oil because it sounds like someone is hitting it rapidly with a hammer!
Go to the garage, say you have been given some advice on something and take it for a good run... At least 5 miles, closer to 10 should do it. Don't over rev the engine at this time because things are being knocked together, not gently pushed, so take it easy.
After a few miles it should go quiet again when the lifters get thier pressure back.

Ps. make sure there is oil in the engine before doing this. To the top of the MAX line will do it.

I do realise without being there and not hearing the engine in person, that it could well be 'larxed but you have nothing to loose by doing this but an awful lot to save if this is the problem.

VWCamperfan wrote:If it wasn't noisy before you stopped, then I would be very surprised if you ran out of oil.
If however it was quiet when you last used it and now it is noisy when it starts, then I would imagine the oil has drained from the hydraulic lifters. This causes gaps in the pushrod assembly that operate the valves and makes them knock together instead of pushing them gently. This will also make one 'ell of of lot of noise... Enough to make you think the engine has run out of oil because it sounds like someone is hitting it rapidly with a hammer!
Go to the garage, say you have been given some advice on something and take it for a good run... At least 5 miles, closer to 10 should do it. Don't over rev the engine at this time because things are being knocked together, not gently pushed, so take it easy.
After a few miles it should go quiet again when the lifters get thier pressure back.

Ps. make sure there is oil in the engine before doing this. To the top of the MAX line will do it.

I do realise without being there and not hearing the engine in person, that it could well be 'larxed but you have nothing to loose by doing this but an awful lot to save if this is the problem.

Added to that - if it is lifters then the CORRECT oil needs to be in the lump too