Club 80-90 Forums

apologies if another thread covers this but i have looked and all seem to be for not idling when warm....

2.0L aircolled.....When it's cold it fires and starts straight away but needs a bit of throttle constantly applied otherwise its stalls. As soon as it is warm it idles fine and has never cut out. I presume its something to do with the choke but haven't a clue!! I also noticed that when i first got the van although the thermostat was there the cable was snapped so i reattached it but don't know if it works...would that make a difference to cold starting?

On a seperate note, it takes some starting when its warm, have to give it a bit of peddle but been told thats fuel evaporating in the carbs or something....

Any advice or repointing me to the thread I have missed would be appreciated....

If it's the same auto choke as my feeble 1.6 then: before turning the key press the accelerator to the floor and release. This sets the auto choke spring thingy. turn the key and should fire up like a good un, but revving slightly higher than when warm...give it a couple of mins then 'blip' the accelerator and you should hear the idle drop back to a more normal speed.
It's probably totally different for the 2.0l and I'm talking out of my a***....but thats how it works on mine.
Andy.

Andy, Julie, & Bobdog wrote:It's probably totally different for the 2.0l and I'm talking out of my a***....but thats how it works on mine.

No that's how it works - on my dad's 2.0 Aircooled at any rate.....

I think it deed that a couple of times but doesn't always idle fast so suspect there is something amiss. Will persevere with it, just means i have to sit there for a minute before setting off. Gives me chance to wipe the inside of the windows anyway.....

Now, from my beetling days I learnt that the autchoke isn't quite so 'auto' as you'd believe and is in fact more of a wild guesstimate.

I created with a scriber, a summer and a winter position as I found it was on when not needed in Summer and not on long enough in winter. They do wear through use ofcourse. Ideal is when engine is cold, undo choke/chokes then turn them until choke just closes then retighten. If choke isn't on long enough (in your opinion), just turn it some more until you think you've found salvation as far as winter running is concerned.

Chances are they'll need a Summer reset though.

CovKid wrote:Now, from my beetling days I learnt that the autchoke isn't quite so 'auto' as you'd believe and is in fact more of a wild guesstimate.

I created with a scriber, a summer and a winter position as I found it was on when not needed in Summer and not on long enough in winter. They do wear through use ofcourse. Ideal is when engine is cold, undo choke/chokes then turn them until choke just closes then retighten. If choke isn't on long enough (in your opinion), just turn it some more until you think you've found salvation as far as winter running is concerned.

Chances are they'll need a Summer reset though.

Hmmm, unfortunately the only thing i understand from above is summer and winter!! And the choke is what and where??

Honestly...I think if you don't know what a choke is and where it is, you'd be better off with a mechanic... this is basic stuff.

or google carburettor and read

kevtherev wrote:Honestly...I think if you don't know what a choke is and where it is, you'd be better off with a mechanic... this is basic stuff.

or google carburettor and read

I didn't know what a pushrod tube was until i had help from here and managed to change them without a mechanic so was hoping i could do the same with this. We alll have to start somewhere........

This is as i understand how to do it, if im wrong somewhere please correct me.

In the above picture, green circle and arrow show you the location of the choke on LH carb there is the same on RH carb. Undo the clips retaining air filter housing (yellow circles) pop top of housing off carbs then you'll see choke flaps, set chokes by pressing the throttle as above then see where they are set. To adjust choke there are 3 small screws around the edges just undo them a tad and spin choke round to give desired effect. Give it a try and if they don't stay closed long enough turn them closed a bit further. Then they should open up as engine gets warm. Will be doing this on my van tomorrow as now the cold weather is here im having the same trouble.

You may also find the following a great introduction in terms of what autochokes do and how they work. It refers to a beetle but the choke works in exactly the same way. Have a read, absorb, and then follow above help.

http://www.vw-resource.com/automatic_choke.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I take your point eddie..we do all start somewhere and your enthusiasm is commendable

A carburettor is a finely balanced piece of equipment that atomises petrol and mixes it with air.
there are many things attached to it that make it work throughout the temperature and rev range .

it most certainly is not a simple tube

some basic knowledge of this is ideal.... or we could be here explaining, enrichment flaps, transfer jets and idle bleed screws till were blue
not trying to be funny here just realistic.
google is your friend

fair snufsky, can't expect miracles!

I understand the very very basics so will have a play. Most of the things I have learnt on the van has been through trial and error and usually having to do it 3 or 4 times!!!

Dare I ask if there is a simple way of checking if the autochoke is functioning? I vaguely recall the principle from my ford cortina ownership days......

look down the throat of the choke
if it's blocked by a flap (when cold)

it's working

if it still blocks the throat when hot

it aint

SUPER!!!!

Thanks to all, I now have the all the info I need and fingers crossed will suss it. Thanks guys!!

PS. When I posted I hadn't seen the other 2 posts with pics and links. Cheery ta very much........

Just got mine sorted, i you leave the ignition on for 30 seconds or so then feel the choke housing (round bit with spade terminal) it should feel warm. If not its broke, i set mine to have about a 6mm gap between butterfly and throat, put filter back on fired up with a high idle, drove round the block a couple of times pulled up and it was back to normal idle, popped filter housing off and chokes were open. Job done

PS you don't need to put your foot flat on the floor to set the choke, when cold should be closed regardless on these carbs.