Club 80-90 Forums

Hi all,

I've got a problem with my '83 T25. This first presented on a long motorway trip soon after I'd brought it - After a particularly long grinding uphill stretch I hit a roundabout and took my foot off the throttle to brake and the engine cut out. Basically, it will not idle. If some pressure is on the accelerator it will keep going but if I try and change gear, coming completely off the pedal, it cuts out and the battery and oil lights come on (battery flickers and comes on first). I had it looked at a local garage on the trip and the guy in there tweaked the linkage to the accelerator arm (sorry don't know the correct names of these bits) and it seemed to up the revs and keep the engine running - if a bit frantically - when left to idle. He told me to have the twin carburettors looked at when I got back home. So, I took to my local garage and told them the problem and got the carbs serviced - new gasket seals - and it seemed to be ok. However... I've done some 40-60 mile trips in it since without incident until today. Did 60 miles motorway yesterday - may have been pushing it as was in a hurry (topping out at 70mph!) - and when I came to drive it this morning the problem was back. First seemed a bit juddery or chuggy and then first roundabout I hit, cut-out, battery and oil lights on and had to restart. I drove it the 60 miles home on the motorway but issue still present when back in town and hitting traffic-lights etc.

Anybody got suggestions as to what it might be?

And - as an aside - is there any retro-fit in-motion heating system for these vans - I'm freezing my toes off and the 3 levers do beggar all to clear the windscreen or breathe any relief in to the cab. Have taken to driving with gloves on (dual purpose - warmth and screen-wiping) and a granny-blanket over my lap, like some Victorian Hansom Cab driver.

All the best and thanks for any help - Chrubble.

Air leak anywhere from the carb/s down to the inlet manifold. Clean carb, change/clean both filters (one on fuel line and the one stuffed inside fuel inlet pipe of carb and make sure all hoses in place and any gaskets from carb to inlet ports aren't leaking.

Cheers - Will give that a go.

I was looking at a van to buy last night ('81 Aircooled 2l) that seems to have the same problem, won't idle and it cut out at a junction, (oil and battery lights come on). Did yours turn over again straight away? Because this one was a stubborn little bugger for 10 to 15 mins! Seller reckons the service its getting on Saturday will sort it, but then the seller is also trying to sell 'er

If you have any luck with CovKids suggestion would you mind letting me know.

Ifits a twin carb set up, thereare numerous bits tat can cause probs, particularly wear in throttle flaps, corroded hoses etc.

The bloke wouldn't let me drive it, but he thrashed the ol' girl round the block, (maybe he didn't want it to cut out, or maybe the source of the problem!). Hopefully the service will magic it all better, but I've got a funny feeling i'll be back to hunting for another one!

very_bland wrote:I was looking at a van to buy last night ('81 Aircooled 2l) that seems to have the same problem, won't idle and it cut out at a junction, (oil and battery lights come on). Did yours turn over again straight away? Because this one was a stubborn little bugger for 10 to 15 mins! Seller reckons the service its getting on Saturday will sort it, but then the seller is also trying to sell 'er

If you have any luck with CovKids suggestion would you mind letting me know.

coil, ignition amp, hall sender in dizzy

all will let the engine fire vack up once they've cooled...of this i speak with experience.....

chrubble

Did you say anywhere what the engine actually was - that should be first thing in the question, to sift those who know & those who don't, from wasting their time.https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=291

You will need to be a lot more specific about when it will idle and when it won't... CovKid there is right, so far, it could be a 100 things, but I'm thinking you might also be starting to burn a valve or similar.

Does it start straight back up and only dies on the overrun.. 'cos then its not likely a failing lecy unit as above..

Have you ever had this engine properly checked throughout, and everything set correctly e.g. starting with a compression test; ignition system fully checked and then the thing got idling.. 'cos so far we don't know what we're starting with, a small fault that's crept in, or as very often here, an engine that hasn't really run well for ages, or even since being purchased..

Just trying to get a start on this, else w'll be 10 pages down and no nearer

And - as an aside - is there any retro-fit in-motion heating system for these vans - I'm freezing my toes off and the 3 levers do beggar all to clear the windscreen or breathe any relief in to the cab. Have taken to driving with gloves on (dual purpose - warmth and screen-wiping) and a granny-blanket over my lap, like some Victorian Hansom Cab driver.

Ah, so its a 2.0 litre a/c CU engine, yah
Mileage ?
FSH or abused ?

Heating eh?

Are all the cowlings in place, in good condition (unadulterated by PO's) and sealed properly ?

Check the Wiki articles here: Aircooled thrmostat

Is the ducting sealed, are the flaps working as designed... ?

NB. Although this is a common complaint, it also said thaty wehn everything is in good condition throughout the cooling and heating system, that they aren't bad at all... there are also ways to make them burn your feet off!

Rincewind wrote: coil, ignition amp, hall sender in dizzy

all will let the engine fire vack up once they've cooled...of this i speak with experience.....

Ok, so the fact that it stopped about a minute into the drive, and took 10-15 to cool down isn't good then .... I certainly won't be going anywhere in it in a hurry

Apologies chrubble, I did not intend for your thread to develop 2 separate conversations.

Another Wki link to the excellent (and famous) Bulley-Hewlett artcile on insulating a T2 and improving the heating system

The last item in the Wiki Heating System menu
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ma ... ing_System

This applies to T25 Aircooled heating systems too!

I sorted a mates van out with same problem. I removed air filter from top of carb. Increased revs to about 3000rpm and covered carb throat with a CLEAN LINT FREE cloth. Engine started to slow down so I removed cloth and then stuck it back on again when revs increased. Did this about 4 times in quick succession. Problem sorted! Seems it "forces" any muck out of the idle jet! Not easy on a twin carb set up mind! Worth a try as it only takes a couple of minutes with minimal part removal. Good luck!

Increased revs to about 3000rpm and covered carb throat with a CLEAN LINT FREE cloth.

Yes, that can work wonders on fixed jet carbs though...

safer to used palm of heavily gloved hand, applying over carb inlet fractionally after the throttle is whipped open. On progressive twin chokes, you can vary the technique to catch idle, transition and main jets, whichever you think might be blocked. Doesn't really matter if the motor does stall, though may flood it a bit.. usually 3 or 4 times does the trick if it is going to work, varying the moment (revs) at which you choke it.

Otherwise, pop the jets out out, blast out (goggles) or vacuum out the slurry/crap and blow out the jet itself (don't go increasing their size by poking them out indiscriminately, although carefully using a wire from a wire brush will remove really stick deposit)

PS. Not sure anyone is listening though

HarryMann wrote: PS. Not sure anyone is listening though

I is....and storing it away for future use....
All useful ammo to threaten the van with if she dare miss a beat!!

Em
x

Hiya sorry for delay adding follow-up. The email notification only seems to work on the first response. I hadn't realised there had been so much activity here!

The engine is a 2-litre air-cooled, which was a major unit replacement and has done 43k miles. When I brought the van the guy said it had a problem stalling on first start probably due to auto choke but was fine on restart.

The problem now seems to occur when engine has been put under a bit more strain. It will restart immediately, but obviously constant restarting puts a strain on the battery. Other than having the carbs sorted out I have not had the engine investigated. I was wanting to get a checklist for the garage to look at. Unfortunately there is no local vw specialist, so my chaps are willing and helpful, but some pointers might help them out - so I don't keep chucking a hundred quid here and there chasing the solution.