Club 80-90 Forums

Mine need replacing having failed on MOT. Its the top ones (Wishbone?) anyway, not attempting this myself and my local garage are doing the job (both sides). The mechanic has never replaced these on a T25 before, the suspension is stripped down and he is awaiting the bushes to arrive.

He's a decent chap and competent but Is there anything I can tell him regards removing the old ones, re-fitting new ones and re-setting the steering geometry?

just done some on a van for the mot
had to grind out the two welds that hold them in and then drive them out fairly easy.
the new ones were a bit of a mare to get in and had to drive them in using a wooden drift and mallet then give them a little weld to stop them moving and put it all back together passed mot fine and drove nicely.
as regards geometry i think it shouldnt have changed but i guess some one will be along with a more knowledgable answer so dont quote me on that.

zero camber - straight upright. If that helps him any.

The little pips of weld will need cutting with an axesaw, the new ones are best pressed in but can be fitted with a hammer and drift, don't hit directly otherwise they may be damaged.
They must have a spot weld to prevent them turning
And
Geometry is a must (Camber set to zero :0°±30' with a slight Toe In: 2mm±3.5mm/0°20'±30')
Martin

Thanks very much guys, will pass all that on to him on Monday, (not a job I fancy doing from the decription)

If they ideally should be pressed in is it possible to fit them using a short length of thick studding and plate washers? I have made up various things using the above and thick wall tubing over the years for bush removal and insertion. I would also suggest filing or turning a slight chamfer on the end to enable them to centralise, especially if using a drift.
BTW I Do many modern garages have a camber gauge?
BTW II whats an axesaw?

An axe one end, a saw the other smart a.se ......ok....I had a jerry moment.....
Anyway...you stand need to talk! quote 'BTW I Do many modern garages have a camber gauge?

Martin

Does no-one realise we have a Wikipedia put together at great expense of time and effort by so many for such questions*...

Suspension alignment
Replacing wishbone bushes

Sorry, but sometimes I do wonder what that menu up the top should be called...

Perhaps we should try copying the Dymo label I used to have on a kitchen draw (full of all sorts of useful things)...

If you can't find it, it's in here

========== Extra Notes ===

Yes alignment does matter, but the best thing to tell your mechanic is to scribe up the main slotted bolt's position before undoing it, the head end, file a good clear mark on it, that faces exactly outwards. Then rotate it after re-assembly before retightening to that positiom, camber should be pretty close after that.
Can check afterwards, but see next note if need to adjust...

Make sure the full weight is back on the suspension (jack lower wishbone up) before tightening that main slotted bolt, the bushes are not bearings, they're rubber bushes not intended to move, so you don't want that rubber in permanent strain.

2WD and Syncro are different, 2WD bushes need MIG tacking in place.

Yes, exact alignment before pressing them in is best - garage should have a 5 ton press (usually)

The camber adjusting eccentric spacing washers come in 3 thicknesses, but normally the originals suffice. YOu can sometimes leave these in place and in position too, white grease, helps to keep them in place too. White grease on bolt.

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dugwiththevwbug Yup, might be worth checking your camber?

====================
Angelo, perhaps you should add the following to your signature please

.....ah well....there's always the 'techy' forum......

and before that the 80-90 Wikipedia, the techy forum is for clarifying what is, or asking about what isn't in't Wiki.

* the original idea was:

a) to reduce the time to garner an tech answer
b) to reduce the continual regurgitation of the same advice (and/or shorten tech query answers, just maybe adding specifics)
c) last but not least, to ensure some degree of authoritative tech advice and accurate specs/data.

I will write out a 100 lines..........At all Times Check The Wiki Doh!

will then print said words of wisdom contained in wiki to paper, meanwhile I'm off to the 'silly corner'...............

...easier and quicker to print out what's there, any doubt, ask for clarification ?

You're forgiven, was just surprised no-one above said...

a fair bit on this in the Wiki

does make us wonder, really does

ta harry man i should have added i marked positions with tippex so hopefully the position/ camber shouldnt be to far out just didnt want to admit to such diy methods. I really wish my path of career had been as a mechanic rather than a carpenter.
And yes all eyes to the wiki first this has saved me valuable time and money with its layman terminology even a diy mech like myself can administer first aid to my van. A major thanks to all contributers of said wiki
regards to all doug

Ah, tippex, a good method if it doesn't get rubbed off during all the hoo haa! Tippex is good for those angular torque stretch bolts, 35 ft-lb, 60 ft-lb, 90, 90 (Oops, it's stripped!)

So your camber is probably like mine then - pretty close to what it was

Harry - you drive a syncro so wheel camber is irrelevant for you - your only concerned about vehicle camber!

So true, especially today in some Surrey lanes, I thought Neil (Axeman) was going for 50 degrees at one point!