Club 80-90 Forums

hello to you all i need help before i get any deeper i have recently bought a non running t25 1.6 air colled with the intension of restoring it to its former glory
only i think its a 1.6 as that what it says on logbook but the bloke who sold it said it was a tooleater how can i tell the difference?
i cant turn the crank by hand is this normal i daren't turn it over with the starter incase it the engine is alreay damaged today i have removed th rocker arms and now the i can just turn the engine over with great effort can some1 please tell me if this normal only in my experience with modern engine the crank sould turn freely with the plugs taken out

OMFG,,,,,is there any oil in it ?

Why not drop it out and have a fish about in it to see if any thing interesting drops out....


any yes it should turn freely with the plugs out but it might be a good idea to put the valve gear back on first so you can give it a quick compression test once you are confident it is isn't shagged out all together.


Regards


Fritz,,,,,,,,,

Hi craig,

had a tooleater myself!! Most inventive spelling of 2 Litre yet!!! I like it!!! Mine eats 13mm spanners - need a new one every time I do a job!!

Differences tween a 1.6 and 2 litre....the first for me ( a girly!) is the difference in number of carbs - the 1.6 typically has a single carb- the 2 litre has 2!!

Good luck in getting it running,

Em
x

oh - and as my mate has just pointed out....go look for an engine number just underneath the breather tube (look for a black plastic chimney) - if it says CU or Cv you have a 2 litre - a CT and its a 1.6. There is another 1.6 engine code, but cannot remember what it is!!

Em
x

seems a bit of conflicting advice here,firstly the engine should turn over easily by hand with plugs out, if it doesnt, yank it out and have a shufty.Secondly you dont need to put the rockers back on to check compression (all valves will be closed) good luck, tezza.

many thanks
theres plenty of oil in it its
only a single carb so must be true to the logbook
i'll do a compression test tomorow with the rocker covers on (got enough oil everywhere already )
once ive confirmed the starters working as it came out of a cupboard in the van

put starter on with rocker arms off engine turns over but quite slow used jump leads from another runnin car straight to back of starter but still a slow turn over please help
is it worth gettin a new starter only there was quite a bit of side2side movement in starter shaft?????????????????????

pop a photo of the motor up we can see what it is then

Craigfev, I've had to read this thread twice (dohh!) so I'm not sure that I've got things right. If you have removed the spark plugs and the engine is VERY hard to turn over then the resistance is frictional ie. seized piston rings/piston or more improbably seized crank (although I once mistook a seized alternator for a seized crank until I took the ancillary drive belt off). If you want a decent compression test then you will need to put the rocker shafts back on (if I'm right in thinking that you've taken them off) and adjust the tappets correctly - imagine that each cylinder is an air pump, pumping up the compression tester. If there is no valve operation (ie the rocker shafts are removed) then the compression tester will only register one swept volume on each cylinder, valves both closed, so you won't get a correct picture of the engines capacity as an air pump; which is what a compression test is. Likewise, imagine turning an engine over with all the valves closed; it will turn over slowly because all four cylinders are on compression stroke, or a neutral 'unbreathing' stroke, like a power stroke without the power. If the rocker shafts are off, put them on, adjust the tappets and start from basic principles - unless the engine is seized This could all be a load of B*ll*cks though.

right finally got a starter for my bus it turns over now and i've done a compression test i got about 5 bar on 2,3and 4 but no 1 only gets 0.5 if that so i 've got the haed off and im takin the valves out on the kitchen table as it is too dark in my garage any suggestions would be very much appreciated also removed the piston and barrel the piston looks brand new and i can see no cracks in the barrel or head??????????????? also does any1 have the valve clearence settings ready for reassembly?

Hi Craigfev, glad to see that you're making progress. Things to check are: cylinder head - check valves, valve seats (possible cracks, burnt, worn etc.), check head for cracks, especially between valve seats. piston/barrel - check for broken/worn rings, worn/scratched bore. Check the old cylinder head gasket for signs of blowing on #1. If the valve seats are worn, get them properly re-cut and the valves reground before trying to grind in the valves, otherwise you'll never get a good seal. Let us know how you get on!

without sounding like a total retard wot head gasket i've got the head off and i havn't seen any gasket i have seen many a (modern) head gasket but none from this engine

Mines a scooby but irrc on those engines there like a copper washer right round the top??? tho could be wrong!

Sorry! I should have described it as a 'sealing ring' or similar. Just check it for any signs of blowing.

Hi fella, good work your doing but I would change my username to,......yep ToolEater
You know you should.
Mike

right afterconsulting mr haynes i've tried to source some cylinder head seals as niether of the left bank had any?and guess what? GSF the air cooled specialists dont do them how helpful, so i've got my man from the local parts place on the job seein as he got me a starter motor for 30 pound cheaper than dick turpin at gsf