Club 80-90 Forums

Hi all,
16 inch 1.6td syncro problems. Had it a few years now, got it from Mr Plompen and has always had CJ of syncrospares keeping it sweet. It has developed over the last few months (only enough to convince me it was real in the last week) a problem (more than the few that it has that can be ignored) . After about 45 mins it starts to feel it is heading into a headwind or it is pulling a trailer. the engine seems to have the same amount of (feeble) power but it feels it is pulling against something. Its losing 10 mph top speed and a good deal of acceleration, Hubs are not hot so don't think its brake related, no sense restriction at walking speed, no more bumps, knocks or noises than normal. No smoke or any more loss of oil than is usual. If you wait 20 mins it is ok for about 20 mins then it starts again. Its getting worse, round trip oop north (700+miles) with family and all the crap that has to be loaded too saw to that. Going to check all tyre pressures, full oil and filter change and check diff/ gearbox levels (any hints on levels and type of oil for diffs / gearbox? ) put oil treatment in and injector cleaner in it for a starter for ten, but any wiser heads out there encountered this before ? P.s it has a decoupler on it to avoid this sort of thing so not sure its a 4wd type problem. Otherwise its the long haul to the new syncrospares.
Andy the fat surfer.
UPDATE.
Air filter "diabolical" which I think means quite blocked, and both diffs empty No test drive as yet as still too busy with kids/work/ triv, but I think it may be a little better now. Only hope that no perm damage to diffs been done.
p.s tried to find gearbox code but came up with SOP or SDP which checking the list does not exist, so thats not it. Any clues as to where the number will be? make it simple, as if it is not obvious by now, I am a a f#%kwit

andy, try dipping the clutch when you encounter the problem. if it feels like the van is slowwing excessivly then it may well be a drive / rolling problem and not a power problem. if it free wheels fine then i`d edge towards a power problem.
lee.

Hmmmmm.....Like you say, fuel/air filters & oil breathers tubes.

Turbo ......

This probably isn't the cause, but worth checking anyway ...

One guy wrote on a German forum about his air inlet pipe, the one going from the left vent down to the filter. It had a kink in it at the bend behind the rear light and every now and then the kink would just cave in with the suction, shutting off some off the air flow. Strangely enough this also only happened after some time of driving.

Peasant has suggested a very good area to check...

The actual air-filter itself, check, replace and inspect the cylinder housing and if filter is in correct way around. empty swirl chamber (lid) and replace at the correct (marked with arrow) radial position.#
Then check that all the inlet piping down to the turbo face is:

a) Original design! (Compare to another JX TD)
b) Not heat damaged or showing signs of damage
c) Connected up properly, there is a (dubious) join half way down that can crush/slip, and that the turbo face fitting looks OK

Remove whole pipework if in doubt, check that no foreign bodies (cloths.paper) anywhere in inlet path

Look at tubo compressor face/vanes for foreign body damage, rattle the turbo shaft in/out then radially (up/down or sidetoside) and estimate play.

Then report back, take it from there
=====================

any hints on levels and type of oil for diffs / gearbox?

Syncro website maybe ? Goto Transmission Lubes link

http://www.club80-90syncro.co.uk/Syncro ... _trans.htm

If inlet air was being restricted, it would start black smoking.
One worthwhile mod, and to eliminate it is to screw shut the BOV on the inlet manifold.
Or, take the Blow Off Valve off, unscrew the brass bung, thrown the spring away and replace with 20mm of 8mm round tube.

This is taking into consideration that the engine is in tip top shape, tappets set (no one ever sets them!) cam and pump timing correct, no leaks on LDA piping, and that the LDA is actually working, there are a surprising amount of vans out there where the LDA doesn't work.
It's a pain at the moment as Bosch don't have any, they are swapping suppliers I'm told and they are not due for a good while yet either.

Hehe, so true...

Synthetic wine corks, don't throw them all away

Gents,
many thanks for the tips. Away with work for next couple of weeks so will update when I get back and do all that is suggested, didn't want to appear ungrateful. Pumped up all tyres to about 37 psi and put new oil in and looked at air inlet/ filter. No long runs so not sure its gone but would guess it hasn't as it there is the merest suggestion of a drag. Wish it would die properly and then i have the excuse for a TDI. Any suggestions for a TDI conversion in the SW now CJ has gone?

Are you running the standard size tyres?? then use the VW quoted pressures.. otherwise try the tyre rating/axle load calcs thats been mentioned on here before (think its in the wiki) front to rear pressures are normally different, not the same all round...

Sounds a good bit like the VC was going tight and getting transmission wind up.. soft tyres and a load on would cause some discrepancy in slip angle/speeds... but I would have thought it would do it before 40 mins....

Are you sure the decoupler is actually decoupled

HarryMann wrote:Are you sure the decoupler is actually decoupled

good point.. i missed it has a decoupler... (Clive you have a PM.. )

That was my thought too but it was definately decoupled and tested (coupled and the feeling changes, light comes on ect). Think it may have enough bits wrong to visit Mr Futbus for the first time as I am a techno biff and will only make the situation worse by trying to have a go.
Andy

UPDATE

Air filter "diabolical" which I think means quite blocked, and both diffs empty No test drive as yet as still too busy with kids/work/ triv, but I think it may be a little better now. Only hope that no perm damage to diffs been done.
p.s tried to find gearbox code but came up with SOP or SDP which checking the list does not exist, so thats not it. Any clues as to where the number will be? make it simple, as if it is not obvious by now, I am a a f#%kwit

Nearside in front of & below driveshaft output flange..

From Wiki (yes, even that is in the Wiki !!!)



SDP means Steyr Daimler Puch (the makers), so forget that..

You want a code like something listed here..

http://www.club80-90syncro.co.uk/Syncro ... os%205.htm

====

The actual air-filter itself, check, replace and inspect the cylinder housing and if filter is in correct way around. empty swirl chamber (lid) and replace at the correct (marked with arrow) radial position.#

No oil in boxes, Oh dear... I had a front diff like that when I bought my Doka... not a good idea!

Sorry to say, that 'some' damage, will indeed have occurred, although perhaps you have been very lucky (not a complete seizure, usually the final outcome through heat).
When you remove the filler or drain plug or a cover plate, it's possible you may 'smell' how hot it got

====