Club 80-90 Forums

After numerous engine installs im still a bit thick and dont know every thing!

Could anyone help me out with the following questions please?

I think i know this as it was the same as my first 1Y.

What are the wires in the middle of the injector pipes for? Im not planning to connect them. (the other ones in the plastic arent there any more as i took the plastic off to leave the solenoid connection).



At the bottom of the pump are two more wires in a single black cover (just below the acceleration damper and to the left of the dipstick). I think these are for an imobiliser. Im not planning to connect them. Am i right?



Whats the black thing for? Im assuming its an automatic cold start based on a vacuum or something. It has a clear pipe coming out of it.



I've gone and broke the water pipe flange (what is it called?) with the sensor on it (inbetween injectors 1 & 2):



What is the sensor for?

I've got spare ones off AAZ's like this:



But obviously they have a fancy plug. Does anyone know how i can use this instead?

The injection pump doesnt look quite the same as my old one:





Its not got the advance unit (if thats what it is - vwdiesel says connect it to 12v permanently for performance gain) but its brand new so im going to use it....

Appreciate the help

Ringo

I've gone and broke the water pipe flange (what is it called?) with the sensor on it (in between injectors 1 & 2):

(in between injectors 3 & 4)

Hopefulyy someone like AndySimpson or Simon will answer those soon enough

try http://www.vwdiesel.net/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for answers about the pump.

I've just fitted my AAZ engine which,by the looks of it,had the same injector pump as yours.My friendly VW specialist told me I could make it work by smashing certain bits off it-it seemingly needs an ECU and the T25 isn't fitted with this.
My solution was to fit a manual injector pump from a 1.9 engine.This works a treat. I think it's also possible to use one off the JX engine if you have one but you might need to check this. Good luck.Al

JX pump generally not thought too well of, will work, but has a very non-std LDA (which can break) etc.

Peugeots with original manual Bosch pumps are the best, if the LDA has a removable dust cap that reveals a (smoke) screw, then prob a good one, but these are getting old now. Might require larger keyway pump drive sprocket (some have larger taper drive shafts)

That is the worst possible pump you will find on an AAZ, it wont advance properly without electronic control unit, pull it off and bin it and fit your old one.

What a shame!

Thanks for the advice - i'll stick the old pump on.

I dont suppose you have any ideas about the water flange? What is the sensor for? I have a flange off the AAZ but its got too terminals attached to it each with four pins.

Vagcat gives me the codes of the water flange but mentions nothing about the sensor.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Ringo

that is the dual temp sender as fitted to most modern vw's it uses one side for engine control
l if required glow plus in this case and one for gauge

Thanks Andy,

The JX one just has the one sender - is this for the temp gauge?

Cheers

Ringo

Thinks...

Glow plugs, aux water pump (e.g.criteria: is this a hot engine or cold one?)

Temp sender > on back of cyl head

Hopefully

Its the temp sender for the dash gauge. I havent got it connected yet as im going to have to work out what pair of wires to use.

I've just fitted the engine and it runs and sounds great -but im getting the oil light flashing permanently and the buzzer of doom occasionally.

This happens when idling. (I havent dared do anything else yet).

Disconnecting the leads from the two oil senders makes no difference whatsoever.

Does anyone know of a way to test if its the electrics or the engine causing this fault?

Its happened to me before after leaving the van for a few days - after driving for 20 minutes the light went off so i put it down to a bad connection.....

Thanks

Ringo

Disconnecting the leads from the two oil senders makes no difference whatsoever.

You need to short one to earth...

The description of the DOPWS is in the WIki, the diesel works the same way I think, one open and one closed circuit?
The low pressure is on back of head and the hp on the filter housing (maybe )

Thanks Clive,

I read that but must have missed the bit about the open circuit.

I am so nervous. What happens if it is the engine! I moved the sensors over from the last engine.

I'll wait till i've tested grounding one out until i really get stressed....

It was so nice (as usual) firing the new engine up and getting it running. Me and my dad were jumping up and down cheering! Then i went to the cab and the buzzer was going off - that ruined a moment...

Cheers,

Ringo

Mine's started buzzing intermittently lately, but with an an oil pressure gauge right in front of me I can immediately refer to, not giving it too much credence.

A cab oil pressure gauge from the filter housing is of course, your best bet, but you can check pressures at rpms at temps with a remote test gauge screwed in. The oil-seals in the turbo are one source of pressure loss.

I might invest then.

Trouble is, having an MG midget for 15 years with an oil gauge, all it did was provide stress. I was constantly looking at it dip when i idled and worrying.

I've got a couple of spare AAZ turbos so that will be one plan of attack if the buzzer is still an issue...

Thanks for the advice - its very much appreciated.

Ringo