Club 80-90 Forums

I'll start off by saying i dont know if this is the right section for this to be in, For those that have seen pics of my van it started life as a horrible green colour i think it was NATO green paint thinned with white emulsion.

I have got my workshop avalable for two weeks so i started by taking all the trim out headlights,wing mirrors, bumpers everything that bolts on externally.

After taking the whole van back to bare metal with a grinder, wire brush attachment and good old fasioned hard graft with sand paper. I was surprised how good the body work was. I took out the external fresh water tank filler and leccy hook uo and made a plate up i didnt weld this area as i did nit want to distort a good square panel so i used metal compound and rivets creating a sandwich sounds solid and no movement.

After more patch work in little areas i treated the whole van in anto corrosion liquid through a spray gun which was run at 3.0 Bar on a 1.4MM needle.

I left it to go over night, After that i took the edge off with some 400 grit paper, i carried out some filling work a light skim over the front panle and rear quarter was all that was really needed.

I used hammerite red oxide primer paint and agai sprayed that that at 3.0 Bar in between coats it had three the van was flatted back then given a light key, using some 800 grit. The paint is water based and was thinned at 2:1 first coat then for the second and third down to straight paint.( then gun struggled a bit with the final coat due to the thickness of the paint).

Now i am on the final stage of paint now the colour i chose flat blue no flakes no nothing due to the fact that metallic shows more imperfections and the way the primer went all shiny when flatted the paint is going to look great.

I realise pics say a thousand words i will put them up over the weekend and do a proper write up but for now thats it.

So in theory in my head there are nigh on 4 anti corrosion paints or treaments on the van. If it rots now there is something wrong!!!

Total cost for the work was about 175 euros with all the paint and consumables some of which were borrowed from work .

Nice one...
Post some pics when you can...

We used hammerite some years ago and found it chips very easily... that was the "solvent" based stuff though...

I love Hammerite (dimple reaction) as it wets into a rusted but clean surface, neutralises the rust, sticks like poo to a blanket and is completely proof against petrol to the point you can paint the inside of fabricated inlet manifolds with it. I have terrible rows with my mates as I like paint Hammerite over a thin film of rust rather than abrade down to bare metal as I find it does chip off unless you can find a really decent etching primer. Is an alarm ringing here? I hope not. I used Smoothrite at the rear of my O/B motorboat and it disolved with petrol and made a right mess. My mate at work painted his motorcycle tank with bright yellow Smoothrite and sure enough petrol did bring it off. Is that another alarm? Anyway maybe you used a different composition paint. I would do a splash and wipe test on a sample panel in case you get an awful surprise at the petrol pump.
Cheers
Wolfie
(of course all this is irrelevent if your van is diesel and I do know I am going to get a "hammering" from all the metalergists and chemists out there)

Citizen Smith wrote: (of course all this is irrelevent if your van is diesel and I do know I am going to get a "hammering" from all the metalergists and chemists out there)

Glad i got diesel and that was my job before i signed on the dotted line for Bodycote Engineering

I did get a reaction when i got the metal to smooth for it to key to with the primer so a bit of going over with the orbital and some 400 grit sorted that out and the paint has to be totally grease free, i used hammerite smooth though and its like gloss.

After fianl paint and rebuild i have got to rewaxoyl underneath as that was also tackled

armyphil wrote:

Citizen Smith wrote: (of course all this is irrelevent if your van is diesel and I do know I am going to get a "hammering" from all the metalergists and chemists out there)

Glad i got diesel and that was my job before i signed on the dotted line for Bodycote Engineering

I did get a reaction when i got the metal to smooth for it to key to with the primer so a bit of going over with the orbital and some 400 grit sorted that out and the paint has to be totally grease free, i used hammerite smooth though and its like gloss.

After fianl paint and rebuild i have got to rewaxoyl underneath as that was also tackled

When standing your Waxoil tin in hot water try using one of those elecric heaters you get for making one cup of tea etc. I use one and it keeps the Waxoil fluid even in the depth of winter. It is however no good for tea or coffee any more!
Cheers
Wolfie

The start of it



The initial rub down


Like father like son



A whole bath towel stuffed up a drain hole, with two dead mice




The rust proofing went on clear and dried a brown/ black a sign its working

First coat of red oxide sprayed then flatted back


The finish achieved with a bit of hard work


Subsequent coats


different angles


First coat hammerite blue, then flatted back


Twomore coats with flatting in between


How i left it tonight with more flatting then laquer to be applied


There area hundred more photos and if any one is interested or wants to know more get in touch its taken just over a week for us to get this far and i have never sprayed in my life but with google and patience it all comes

what time would you like me to drop mine off phil ?....looks bloomin great that does

weldore wrote:what time would you like me to drop mine off phil ?....looks bloomin great that does

weldore wrote:looks bloomin great that does

why thank you i am sick of coughing up horrible green bogeys though

Can I see your van in yellow?

Looking good.

how many tins of red did you use?

That looks absolutely fantastic.

Frank

eatcustard wrote:how many tins of red did you use?

I used a total of 3 tins ( 3 litres) but the red is thinned with water whereas the blue is thinned with thinners so prep work has to be good othjerwise the paint reacts and decides to strip its self, and yes i did find that out!!

Today the final prep was done to 1200 grit for 5 five hours. So it was roughish then the final coat of blue was applied but with 10% more tinners so the paint goes slightly furry.

The after its dried for 36 hours i will be compounding it back with a buffer then applying around 3 to 4 coats of clear

You have certainly put a great deal of effort into it! Not sure I would fancy taking a T25 back to bare metal and you must have the patience of a Saint......my complimets!

Amazing job - where DO you get the energy??