Club 80-90 Forums

Cheesed off with mine. Can stand there for ages trying to unlock or lock tailgate. Its the early type. I know Fritz mentioned about filing protruding pins down but how the heck do you get one apart?

And no, WD40 won't do it.

Hmm, forget that. Just sorted it:

Tap retaining pin out, and (keeping key in lock) carefully remove barrel. Check for any brass lock pins that stick out when key is fully inserted as they'll be the ones stopping lock turning. Over large sheet of paper (preferably white) remove key gently Remove brass lock pins and lay out in order they were removed. Each has a tiny spring underneath - remove these too (and don't lose any).

Clean barrel, stretch each spring (only slightly!), and doing each pin in turn, put spring back, followed by brass pin, then insert key fully every time to make sure pin is flush (if not, remove it and file slightly so it does), repeat until all fitted, barrel resinserted and lock works. Actually found that swapping two pins helped as well. Then refit retaining pin.

Phew - lock works again. Driving me nuts that was. Basically sleeve into which barrel fits had worn away. No way to repair that really but filing pins gave it a new lease of life.

Thanks Covkid, any pictures ?

Stefvan

In every respect, the procedure is the same as: http://home.clara.net/hallvw/lockpart.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Heres the retaining pin you need to remove to get the lock barrel out. I blunted the sharp end of a small nail with a hammer, and this made a suitable tool to knock the retaining pin out on the workbench. Once the barrel is out, clean everything. It also pays to use a round file to take off any sharp edge from the lock housing inners as this will have worn. If you clean everything, its much easier to see any trouble spots. I used a small amount of ordinary (bicycle) lubricating oil on the lock afterwards - sewing machine oil would be better. Too often they are treated to grease which isn't great in lock barrels as eventually everything gums up.

Just remember the lock parts are TINY, so don't attempt this job on your lap in a dirty workshop. Do it on a table on a large sheet of paper and take your time.

Must admit, I'm really pleased with the result. Very positive lock now - perfectly matched to the key and works every time. Its worth noting that someone on ebay can do two T25 keys for £13.99 providing you supply the lock number. May pay to start with correct key rather than your worn down one? Just an idea. You may also be able to find a housing that isn't so badly worn. The above also applies to door handles by the way.

Cheers CovKid

Stefvan

No probs. I tell you what, after almost a YEAR of fighting with that lock, I find myself locking and unlocking it for the sheer novelty of getting in first time!

Yeah cheers covkid, 'tiz a job on my winter to-do list! Mines not a fight ... yet! but I do have to give it a wiggle to get the key to turn.


PS. WD40 in locks is not a good idea, buy some graphite powder if it does need lubricating

Same here. Re-keyed my cab doors using the linked guide