Club 80-90 Forums

Having just recently got my van back on the road with a new ( recon ) engine, I returned it to the garage who did the work, to service it now it was run in, when I got it back I noticed after twenty or so miles the oil light was flashing, I called the garage and they told me to take it back so they could take a look, I was told it was a faulty oil pressure switch, the van was given the all clear, so off I went down the A21, having done about ten miles I came off and as I slowed the oil light came on, this time I made sure I parked over some clean concrete so I could see if there was a leak, after an hour or so a huge oil slick appeared !!! called the garage they told me to get it there with AA, picked it up again today and was told it was another oil switch, apparently the oil leaked through the switch ???? Anyway it goes well but..................... I'm wondering whether I should tell them the water light came on on my way home ???? Is my van jinxed ??!!!

I'd be asking then to supply genuine or european made switches rather than cheap 'chineese' copy carp which is available these days.....


Regards


Fritz,,,,,,,,,,,

brickwerks supply very good quality german switches

is the water level in the header OK?.... (not the top up tank)

kevtherev wrote:brickwerks supply very good quality german switches

is the water level in the header OK?.... (not the top up tank)

When I checked the tank behind the number plate last night it was empty, so I filled it up once the engine had cooled, but this morning the water light was still flashing, so after speaking the guy at vw garage, was directed to the header tank, that was low so I filled that and it seems ok now, can't see how a new engine can get through that much water also while checking the header tank I noticed what looks like a copper residue on the inside of the cap and copper like particles in the water

sounds like its had k seal put in it at some point...

copper like particles in the water

R0B wrote:sounds like its had k seal put in it at some point...

copper like particles in the water

Er what exactly is K seal? is it a sign of a bodge job

It could be that the cooling system has not been properly bled and that coppery residues is rust and sludge blown through the system. Did the temp gauge go over half way at any time? Make sure the header tank is full to the top and that the top up tank (behind the flap) is up to the minimum mark. (when stone cold) if the top up tank stays level over a number of days you should be ok. To be sure you could bleed the system by loosening the bleed nut on the top left of the radiator when the engine is warm any any traped air will bubble out (the rad is the highest point in the system). Mark

k seal is used to stop water leaks.only good as a temporary solution.

Er what exactly is K seal?

woodguru wrote:
Er what exactly is K seal? is it a sign of a bodge job

Yes

As has been said, K-Seal is like a modern version of "radweld" and is used to bung up small water leaks.

Water leaks in radiator = not the garages fault.
Water leaks in the engine = is the garages fault.

I wonder who put it in and why ?

I would keep a very close eye on the water and oil condition and level for a good few weeks.
First sign of trouble, get it back to the garage.

Fingers crossed for you that this is all just teething troubles though.
Just out of curiosity, who's re-con was fitted ?

.

Fingers crossed for you that this is all just teething troubles though.
Just out of curiosity, who's re-con was fitted ?

I'm not sure who the company is but I think they were in Essex.

I just got a genuine one £10 mien was doing the same leakign through the switch

hi all, are these switches easy to fit as i have the same problem, thanks

Depends

The one between the N/side pushrod tubes is easy enough, (except you may have to remove the tin pushrod cover and to do that you may have to undo an exhaust stud or 2, which may break, then you have to take the engine out to get the broken exhaust stud fixed )

So if you can get at it by undoing the bolts on trhe crankcase and then bending the tinware out of the way you will be safer This is what I did

The one by the lower pulley is hard even to see, but with the aid of a torch and a suitable spanner it is not that hard to get in and out actually.

Well thanks all for your words of wisdom, I think the new switches seem to be ok, well so far anyways, and the water level seems to have solved itself too, ok so maybe I'm not 100% confident yet and to think I decided to go for a T25 because I they look coooooooler and thought they'd be cheaper to keep going than a bay